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Capbreton, a Fish Lovers Paradise

Capbreton has to be the best place to visit in SW France for the true lover of fresh fish. Sure, there are many coastal towns with fishing communities, but I have never enjoyed such fresh fish and seen such wonderful selections offered by fish mongers, as I have in Capbreton.

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Great Culinary and Wine Escapes in SW France – Bordeaux Rouge and Chateau Ladausse

if you wanted to rent a car and explore the countryside of Gironde and Lot et Garonne (towards Dordogne), check these two stops out. Both Rouge Bordeaux and Chateau Ladausse are owned by couples who excel in hospitality, offer traditional French cooking classes and day trips around the region. You'll enjoy comfortable ensuite lodging in charming locations with hosts excited to share the best of their area!

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What is a Maison des Vins?

Some Maison du Vin will offer classes or picnics if booked in advance, like in Podensac. They often have some bottles open for free tastings, or for small fees of around 5-10 EURO. I've been to locations in Sauternes and Entre Deux Mers where they have been able to make tasting reservations at the chateaux for me. They are an incredible resource. Saint Emilion has tasting classes, for example, to help you understand the different aromas in the local wines. There are often many chateaux to purchase in the Maison du Vin, from the larger names to some surprise smaller estates.

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Healthy, organic eating at these Bordeaux Restaurants

Where to eat when you are looking for locally sourced products, cooked in a healthy way...and aren't just sandwiches? Which restaurants offer great vegetarian or vegan options in Bordeaux? There is a great movement by local chefs to offer seasonal dishes with lots of local ingredients, often times using farms just outside of Bordeaux or using ingredients from less than 100 kilometres away.

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Restaurants of Rue du Ha in Bordeaux

Rue du Ha (with a hat on the 'a') near to the Cathedrale Saint Andre is named after the chateau-fort created by Charles VII after the 100 years war. Today, Rue du Ha is known for its incredible restaurants and is a nice street to wonder along. From Lauza, to Bibi there are many culinary delights for you on this one street!

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Fromageries and Cheese Tastings in Bordeaux

Everyone coming to France wants cheese and wine! While the SW of France is not home to a lot of cheeses, sorry to say, we do still have plenty of places where you can try some! Bordeaux has lovely fromageries (cheese stores), restaurants focused on cheese, and even some that offer cheese tasting lessons! Here are some of my favorite places to eat, buy and try French cheese in Bordeaux!

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Paris Travel Tips

With almost all international flights from the USA going to Paris, you'll inadvertently stop in Paris at either the beginning or end of your Bordeaux holidays. Living in Paris versus having a trip there are two different animals and my recent trip reminded me how overwhelming Paris can be...especially with children. Here are some of... Continue Reading →

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Best Wine Bars with Food in Bordeaux

There are so many wonderful wine bars in Bordeaux, but so many only offer charcuterie and cheese. Wine, in particular red wine, has been accompanied by cheese for ages. Tanins, like those in coffee and chocolate also, are softened by dairy. So it makes sense its a classic pairing. And who doesn't love some porc noir de Biggore with a nice glass of Chateau Ferriere (one of my favorite combinations at the wonderful bio wine bar Complain Terra). What if you want more? It's equally fun to try wines with different styles of food and in France, that's what wine is about - complimenting or enjoying with a dish! Here are some of my favourites in Bordeaux, which is your favourite?

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Bordeaux Restaurants Open in August

Visiting Bordeaux in the summer is great with the stunning 18th century city, local sandy beaches and vineyards to visit! A lot of Bordeaux goes on holiday in August as well, so here are a list of some of the restaurants open that I'd recommend. I'll update as the restaurants respond so keep checking in. Most have online reservations through their website. Enjoy your summer trip and meals in Bordeaux!

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Why Gironde Reminds me of the Carolinas

No, vineyards do not stretch as far as the eye can see in North Carolina, but there are a lot of similarities between these two places I've lived that made Gironde feel like home immediately. Colonial History between Bordeaux and the South Bordeaux in essence is a colonial city. So much of its Roman and... Continue Reading →

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Baltoro Ice Cream in Bazas with Savory Pairing

s looking for new options in the shop, Baltoro is now offering something really unique which you have to tryโ€ฆcharcuterie and cheese with an ice cream pairing. Having moved to Bazas from Barcelona which has a very adventurous culinary scene, Iโ€™m loving this idea! On a hot summer day, itโ€™s a perfect. Its also really refreshing to have something other than wine with charcuterie and cheese!

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Southport and Bald Head Island, North Carolina

Located at the end of the river into the Atlantic Ocean, one hour from Wilmington, you find this charming old port town. Once only known for the fishing boats arriving, it's fast becoming a retiree dream land with marinas and beautiful developments popping up everywhere. I wish you could see the Southport we knew from decades ago, but I think you'll still find that vibe in the old town and along the waterfront.

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Chateau Bonalgue Pomerol Vineyard

It is run as a biodynamic vineyard and your tour with guide Eveli Rodriguez will highlight some of the more important and interesting parts of biodynamic wine making. This might have been my favourite part because it opened conversation to other unique methods of farming, like the use of music to promote growth and protect from mildew. Eveli adores questions so come prepared!

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Restaurant Aga in Cadillac

You would be remiss to not book a table at Aga if you are anywhere near Cadillac in SE Gironde. This is a small, chef-owned restaurant located near the historic Clock Tower (Vernihaut), close to the covered market. Their plates are based on seasonal and regional ingredients, so if you are a locavore you will be very happy!

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Bordeaux Wine Bars

With so many wine bars in Bordeaux to choose from, how do you pick one? First question is why are you going? Is it for casual food and wine apero time? Or, are you wanting to learn more about the classic wines from Bordeaux? Are you interested in the natural wines from the area? Here is a short guide to a handful of the wine bars in Bordeaux.

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When Kids Get Sick in France

If you have children, it's the biggest fear that your children will get sick or injured on vacation. Especially in a foreign country. France has wonderful healthcare, so that is a great relief. However, the system works differently from the USA. While I hope you don't need them, here are some tips and advice for when you're traveling with children and need to see a doctor or go to the hospital.

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Thermal Baths and Spas near Bordeaux, France

Thermal spas are a great way to spend a day. As a mom, they're a wonderful, rejuvenating experience alone. They're also really fun with kids! There are so many different styles and price points, how do you know which one to choose? The Landes region, South of Bordeaux, has multiple historical thermal spa towns.

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Marche des Capucins and Bordeaux Markets

Named after the religious order that used to inhabit that area, the now famed covered market 'Marche des Capucins' is a sensory theme park. The noises, the smells, the stands of beautiful fruits and vegetables...maybe a local chef sighting as well?! It is best Wednesday-Sunday and often has seasonal finds that you cannot buy in other locations outside of the city, like wild garlic or cepes. When it first started in the 18th century, it was for the sale of cattle but over the next two centuries it morphed into what we see today. The covered roof was added in 1878 and still covers the 80 plus merchants inside.

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A Day in Saint Michel Bordeaux

One of my favorite things to do is simply walk aimlessly in cities. Saint Michel, which is the neighborhood around the Marche des Capucins in Bordeaux, is one of those lesser seen areas full of life! You'll find tajines, Halal butchers, Greek restaurants, upscale wine bars, historic churches, and picturesque facades. A unique multifaceted charm not yet uniformed by tourism.

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Dining in Bordeaux: Christmas Restaurant Guide 2024

Visiting Bordeaux during the Christmas holidays is charming, with the lights and decorations on the streets and the annual Christmas market. However, many Bordelaise go on holiday as well...so which restaurants are open between Christmas and New Years in Bordeaux? Check out our blog post with restaurants open and links to their websites or booking links.

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Pope Clement V and Visiting Villandraut

Villandraut is around an hour from Bordeaux, only accessible by car or bicycle, but full of history. The Chateau which dominates the center of town was built by Pope Clement V who was born in Villandraut. The Ciron River flows through, offering water activites in the summer, and a weekly Thursday market is a great way to take in the local culinary culture!

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Aquitaine Caviar and Sturgeon

The massive pre-historic fish that once swam freely and abundantly through nearly all of the European rivers are now essentially extinct. You will never find wild sturgeon caviar anymore; it is all farmed (no matter what the label says). The lifestyle of the fish from wild to farm has apparently changed the flavor and texture of the product itself. While these two points can already vary between species, the Siberian/Baerii caviar tending to have a more earthy flavor with the Osetra leaning towards more oyster flavor for example, they are still very different from those who would remember caviar before the 1980's.

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Modjo – Molecular Tendencies in Bordeaux

Having tried to get here twice before, I was very pleased to finally make it and to be able to share the meal with my friend, Ira of Lost in Bordeaux. Modjo is location on Rue des Herbes, a street we pass and discuss often on our culinary tours but have never taken the time to walk down. The faรงade is rather austere, the interior simple and clean. The menu price of 21 EUROs for the three course lunch was another wonderful surprise and even more hard to believe once you have finished your meal. How does France do it? This would be easily a 50 USD lunch in the USA. You get three courses, but also amuse bouche (small palate 'teasers') and it ends with mignardises (the final small, bite-sized sweet after dessert). For 21 EURO. Vive la France.

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Bordeaux Wine and Food, Classic Summer Pairings

My summers with my husbands family from Gironde were always spent around the lunch table. Hours of sharing wonderful food cooked by his grandmother, stories about life here from his grandfather, and red wine. Always a rather bold, hearty, red wine from Pessac Leognan. Which, is what most of us think about when we come to Bordeaux the first time. However, I want to share some of my favorite Bordeaux whites (a sparkling rose) to enjoy in this sizzling summer heat.

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Touring in the Lovely Lot, France

Long and warm days are the best to explore the department that you will end up liking a Lot! Less known than its neighboring Dordogne, the Lot department is rich in natural beauties as much as in historical landmarks. Over the course of three road trips from Gironde, we started exploring the department, from North to South and from West to East, with younger kids, with older kids and once even leaving the kids at home.

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Nea Berglund, Chateau Carsin Organic Wine, and a Cottage

Nea Burglund is one of the people I met and just wanted to know more about immediately. She is driven and experimental. Originally from Finland, in winemaking she wants to respect the traditional process and classical wines found in Bordeaux, but she is also very open to trying something new. Her organic and more 'experimental' wines have been a hit. In fact, she's all but sold out until the next bottling (run if you want some rose!). Which is really impressive for a relatively new winemaker. You also need to try her delicious balsamic vinegar. And stay at her newly renovated three bedroom gite on property. The perfect French countryside escape. Nea Burglund is one to watch!

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Food and Wine Tours with Kids in and around Bordeaux

While many of our Bordeaux tours are created with adults in mind, we are seeing the importance of finding ways to include our smaller travellers. Aquitaine Travel Guide is happy to help you plan a trip with your children that can include not only a family friendly food tour, but excursions into the countryside to farms to meet animals and run around in the fresh air! Contact us to help plan your trip contact@aquitainetravelguide.com

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Travel to Lisbon, Portugal from Bordeaux

Lisbon (Lisboa) must be the secret that everybody knows and doesn't bother keeping it for themselves. Lisbon is known for the stunning tiles or azulejo that have made this city famous for centuries. From Pastel de Nata, cod, conservas and great wines, you'll be sure to eat well in this historic city!

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Where to Eat Oysters in Bordeaux

One of my favorite places to visit on the coast are the ostrรฉicultureย cabins that offer platters of their oysters (and shrimp, pate) with local wines on benches while sitting in the summer sun, admiring the sparkling seaside. If you can't make it there though, where can you try some fresh local oysters in Bordeaux?

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Classical French Restaurants in Bordeaux

Classic French Restaurants in Bordeaux that have been open decades, serving up those French classics like oeufs mimosa, choucroute, sole meuniere, and the Bordeaux classic entrecote a la Bordelaise...but these beautiful historic restaurants will serve up everything from fire roasted duck to chicken ballentine!

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Chandeleur and Crepes

The tasty aspect of this holiday, Chandeleur here in France, is the great amount of crรชpes made, in each household, following a different recipe. My father in law is self-appointed crepe-master. He prepares, like every year, the batter 24 hours in advance, mixing fresh eggs, flour, butter, a pinch of salt and a mix of rum and pastis. There is no sugar in our mix, as the sweet will be added after being cooked.

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La Camargue Estuary and Le Grau du Roi

Our first stop was for a carriage ride (balade en caleche) through the estuary, at Marais du Vigueirat. We took the tour in the late afternoon and it was rather hot this June day, so I would recommend an earlier morning visit. It was around an hour long and all in French, but the scenery was incredible and we learned a lot. Especially how important the role of the black bulls are. The course Camargue (bull fights) held in the Camargue are not to the death and the 'Razeteurs' (bull fighters) are less important than the bull.

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Bordeaux Food and Wine Tour

introduce you to high quality food and local products. While passing famous locations like the Grand Theatre or Place de la Bourse, maybe we will taste caviar, oysters, Landais duck and Basque goat cheese. Our food tours include Bordeaux wine, with a description of the many styles of local wines. It's not only bold reds in Bordeaux!

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The Tradition of Palombe Hunting in South-West France

In South-West France, during the months of October and November, there were so many people hunting wild pigeons (when the birds migrate flying from the northern lands towards the Iberian peninsula), that it was not possible to get married because the priest would have been at the palombiere.

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Bordeaux and the Gironde Estuary

We visited the east bank of the estuary right before the summer break in 2021,ย crossing from our home in Gironde into the department of Charente Maritime, luckily when restaurants were just restarting their on-site service. Being so close to the water, it was no surprise to learn how important the fishing sector has been throughout the years, with a few typical varieties getting the podium: the Lamprey, the Meagre (that, despite the name is of XXL size and can weight up to 55kg) and the Sturgeon that is a protected specie since 1982, after being overfished to the point of risking extinction in barely 60 years since the French "discovery" of caviar.

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Largest Sand Dune in Europe near Arcachon

Located just west of Bordeaux, between the Landes pine forest and the Atlantic ocean, the mighty dune du Pilat is a great place to view both land and sea! It is almost 3km long, just a little over 106 meters high and more than 600 meters wide. Each year the measurement has to be recalculated, as the dune is still in movement and it continues to advance inland, through the forest from one to five meters per year.

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Armagnac en Fete

The south west of France has always been a land of passage and trade: the Romans introduced the vine (la vigne), the Arabs the still (l'alembic armagnacais) and the Celts the barrel (la barrique). This is how the oldest recorded distilled wine in France came about. There are even documents citing the Armagnac as early... Continue Reading →

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Every Food has a Story – the Canelรฉ

16th century Annonciade couvent in Bordeaux used to collect the egg yolks from the wine makers who had used the egg whites to clarify the wine (some say to seal they used the egg whites to seal the barrel but that makes less sense). The legend likes to add that they collected extra vanilla, rum and sugar shipped back from the Caribbean, and added flour and milk. It's all very romantic, and one can envision nuns in their habits looking for the spices to be scavenged from the spice storage in Chartons (now the modern art museum). However, there are some key issues with the story.

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Guide to a Week in Sardinia, Italy

After a year of partial confinement in the French countryside, we looked forward being at sea as much as possible. Luck was on our side when friends told us they were going to Sardinia and accommodation in their same residence was available, at friend's discounted rate. Sardinia / Sardenga is an island south of the French island of Corsica. It is often thought of being filled with yachts belonging to the rich and famous. It's so much more, the natural landscapes and seemingly endless supply of beaches make it a nature lovers paradise.

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Sarlat-la-Caneda in Perigord

The Dordogne and Perigord Noir is a magical part part of South-West France. There are museums tracing some of the earliest peoples in France. Great local delicacies like black Perigord truffle, foie gras and walnuts. The best time to visit is the fall, when the leaves are changing color and the air is crisp enough to make a fire.

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Charming Village of Rieux-Volvestre in Haute-Garonne

pilgrimages towards St. Jacques de Compostela. With it's cathedral from the 12th century and beautiful brickwork, Rieux-Volvestres charm will surprise every traveler that arrives here on purpose...or by just getting lost along secondary roads boarded by the many corn and sunflowers fields.

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Oysters in the Bassin d’Arcachon – Ostrรฉiculture

While oyster cultivation has been occurring in our area of SW France for millennia and is a massive industry on the West Coast of France in general (France accounts for 60% of all oysters eaten in Europe, if they get the chance to leave the country). The Bassin (bay) is a large producer but mostly known for being the largest producer of baby oysters, or spat, which are then sent all over France.

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Wine Tourism and Bordeaux

Bordeaux is a great city to visit - it's a lovely, smaller version of Paris (much of Paris was designed after it's 18th century design), but many come to learn more about the wine culture of Bordeaux. If you only have one day, there is plenty to explore in town. I'd invite you to spend at least two, because visiting a producer outside of town is a must, be it the famous Chateau Pape Clement which is accessible by public transport or the intimate, family owned producer of Chateau Beard la Chapelle in the hills near Saint Emilion.

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Cap Ferret and Village l’Herbe

Where do you go to get away from it all? One of the great escapes for someone living in Bordeaux, or Gironde as a whole, is a trip to the Atlantic Coast. One of my favorite places is Cap Ferret, a peninsula that offers both Atlantic coast beaches and Bassin d'Arcachon shores which are perfect for small children. Granted, during high season it can be a like Saint Tropez in summer...filled with people, cars and boats.

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Farm Tours near Bordeaux and Slow Travel

There is nothing like the thrill of Paris the first time you visit France, but what if you are looking for something a bit different, off the beaten path? You only need to take a 30 minute train ride from Bordeaux, to discover the countryside of Gironde! Aquitaine Travel Guide started with the hopes of sharing Farm to Table style tours

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Asparagus Season and First Recorded French Recipe

It was written by the chef Francois Pierre or 'La Varenne', in his book 'Le Cuisinier Francois'? Nothing worthy of mentioning had been written since Taillevents' 12th century cookbook, but this new book was filled with exciting revelations since the incredible influence of Italian haute-cuisine in France, thanks to Catherine de Medici.

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SW France Countryside of Captieux, Gironde

...best way to see the real France and during these covid times a great way to have fun, avoid large groups of people and support smaller communities. Captieux has a lake, Lac de Taste, incredible farms like La Ferme des Filles, is home to one of the most Northern bull rings, and is where the delectable 'puits d'amour' pastry is from! Besides selling incredible produce from seasonal vegetables to eggs on-site, La Ferme des Filles has gites to rent, will eventually run educational events (when covid allows), and offers a lovely large area for your children to roam and meet goats, sheep and chickens...

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Langon, Verdelais, and Saint-Croix-du-Mont with Lost in Bordeaux

Gironde has so many beautiful places to visit, some of my favorite (especially in the summer months) are the Langon market (Friday), Verdelais, and Saint-Croix-du-Months. Ira of Lost in Bordeaux came with me a few weeks ago and her talents created a really fun video of some of my favorite places. I wanted to share the addresses and a few more if you should end up that way! A day trip from Bordeaux in Southeast Gironde / Discovering the Southwest of France - YouTube

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Saffron History and Producers in SW France

You might wonder how to tell the good saffron from the bad safflower, why some threads costing three times as much as other 'saffron'. Well, as with many expensive food items, besides the quality, you also have to question the authenticity. It takes at least 100,000-200,000 threads of saffron to make a kilo, which sells for anywhere from 3,000-6,000 EURO. It's the most expensive spice in the world...During the pandemic of bubonic plague a war ensued called the 'Saffron War', it was so valued as a cure for the suffering that stocks in Europe were depleted and more was ordered from the East.

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Libourne – Where History, Food & Wine Converge

When I was visiting Libourne a few months ago, I realized I needed to know more and knew just the person to ask - Jennifer Poe of 'My Bordeaux Tours', who is an experienced local tour guide andย  American expat living in Bordeaux.ย She is the blogger behind 'American Mom in Bordeaux' and has worked with multiple river cruise companies offering tours to their clients. Libourne has a lot to offer any visitor from walking along the port, wandering through the old bastide section of town, a lovely fine arts museum and exploring it's variety of stores, cafes and restaurants. Especially on market days, Tuesday, Friday and Sunday mornings - this town is alive and vibrant - not just around the holidays.

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Adventures in Truffle Farming – Black Perigord

Truffle Farming came up the other day when a group of us were talking about finding truffle products locally. A friend, Nola Dโ€™Enis (culinary guide and writer), was mentioning a local truffle tree farm (truffiere) not to far from us that she had written about it a few years ago called Agri-Truffe. So, I paid them a visit. I had been writing about truffles in Dordogne (the epicenter for France) and decided to go a different route, what if you want to start your own truffle farm? Here are the experiences of three different people who started truffle farms - Alain Fabregues in Australia, Casey Yangeolva in Bularia, and Loic Luzinier in France.

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Traveling with Kids in Aquitaine

There are unlimited amounts of things to do with children in Aquitaine, from Atlantic coast beaches to Bordeaux parks and museums. It's a very family friendly area, with lots of great camping grounds in all price ranges (the French version of a holiday home/camping/vacation park). Most larger French towns have a beautiful old carousel which kids adore, good parks and public pools.

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Saint Macaire

At the bottom of the hill to Saint Macaire, the Garonne river used to touch the town and boat loads of wine would make their way to Bordeaux. Sadly, the rare Saint Macaire grape isn't grown much in the region anymore, but biodynamic producer Chateau Cazebonne will have their first bottle of 2020 Saint Macaire ready next year!

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Bistrot Cul Sec in Bordeaux, Technique and Curation in Food and Wine

A friend and fellow food and wine lover send me an article about Bistrot CulSec opening in Bordeaux. The first thing that jumped out was that the chef and sommelier had worked at Akrame in Paris. Which meant, as I had spent probably my most formative time in the kitchen at Akrame, we had to... Continue Reading →

A Culinary Journey Through Bordeaux’s Spice Shops

If there is one subject that I love in culinary history, it's spices. Nothing brings me more joy than entering a fragrant, epicerie, or spice and gourmet food shop, and discovering the spice offerings! Local items like wine salts, some regional like piment espelette, and many spices from far away. The distance from where these... Continue Reading →

Explore Bordeaux: Kid-Friendly Attractions and Dining

I love traveling with my girls now that they're older, but we always made an effort to travel and share new places with them. Bordeaux is a great place for food and wine, but it's also a wonderful place to bring your family with children young...and old! I wanted to include some tips on what to do with your children in Bordeaux and please feel free to reach out with any questions.

Which Hotels to Stay at in Bordeaux

Someone recently asked where they should stay in Saint Emilion. Truth is, I don't feel comfortable telling you where to stay if I haven't stayed myself! I choose hotels on location, price, and cleanliness, trying to get the best value I can. Most of my 'staycations' are in Bordeaux, so here are a few hotels to try in Bordeaux!

WWII in Bordeaux

There are some notable names and places in Bordeaux from the Second World War that will be of interest to visitors. The city was Nazi occupied from end of June 1940 until 1944, the population exploding to over 1 million during this period of time (from a pre-war population of 250,000). Bordeaux happened to be the capital of France at one point during WWII, briefly in June 1940.

History of Americans in Bordeaux

In 1777, Morocco was the first country to recognize the Independence of the United States of America from England. A year later, George Washington chose the build the first overseas consulate for the United States, in a location named the โ€˜Fenwick Houseโ€™. Built to reflect the mutual respect between France and the States during the... Continue Reading →

A Weekend of Pintxos in San Sebastiรกn, Spain

So this last time when we went, over the fall school holidays in France, I wanted to book a food tour to help navigate the nearly 250 pintxo bars. I searched for chef lead food tours, hoping to find someone with a similar background. I found one of the most charismatic and enjoyable guides, knowledgeable and who completely changed my impression of the pintxo, Greg of Basque Bites.

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