If there is one subject that I love in culinary history, it’s spices. Nothing brings me more joy than entering a fragrant, epicerie, or spice and gourmet food shop, and discovering the spice offerings! Local items like wine salts, some regional like piment espelette, and many spices from far away. The distance from where these spices originate doesn’t take away their importance in local history.
WHAT IS AN EPICERIE?
The first ‘epiceries’ opened up in the Middle Ages, when spices were all the rage and that would have been all that was sold in these specialty stores. Spices were also used as medicines and cures created by the shop owner. Eventually teas and coffee were sold in épiceries. The modern épicerie is more varied and less focused than when they were first created.
Many Medieval European and French culinary styles could have been seen similarly, with slight differences between countries and kingdoms. Eastern Europeans had more salt in their recipes, the French had a unique love of cumin. The wealthy loved spice and the poorest could only dream of affording such quantities of these precious seasonings. Once the Dutch East India Company had great success and spices were more readily available, the wealthy lost interest. Sugar was also becoming cheaper and sweats, teas, coffee and chocolate took over in the 16th and 17th centuries.
In the past, additives could be put into the spices to stretch already expensive products, often ending in disaster. Even today we have to worry about additives in turmeric or fake saffron and chemical ‘truffle products’. Some harmless and others not so much. Big open bags filled with spices, while beautiful and fragrant, is not a great way to store them. Keep fresh spices in closed containers away from light. That is why finding a quality spice shop with a vendor that knows the origins of their products is so important.
Centuries ago, you could expect to be paid with spices, which has the same origins as ‘especes‘ (French for cash). Just as Romans could have been paid in salt, thus where the word ‘salary‘.
Many epicerie shop owners are also some of the most interesting people to speak with, knowing the minute details of one spices history or utilization. Expect to find spices, but also pate, jams, chocolates, biscuits, kitchen tools and more in modern épiceries .Here are some of my favorite spice shops.
EPICERIES IN BORDEAUX
Dock des Epices in Bordeaux. If you have done a tour with me, you know Ludo and his shop of wonders. Incredible selection of peppers, unique spice blends based on local tastes and history, vanillas, and a myriad of other high end goods. Can be put into plastic bags, rather than glass bottles, for easy travel. High end spices for the serious cook! Open 1030am-630pm / Closed Sunday and Monday / 20 rue Saint James, 33000 Bordeaux / 05 56 44 41 57 / Dock des épices – Sélection d’épices du Monde
Echoppe de la Lune has two locations, one on Rue Saint Remi in the old town and one near the Bacalan / Chartons. Owned by Anne, she shares many local goods, spices, teas and jams, plus her own unique creations. Items for the young and old. The larger location at Centre Bord’eau village Hangar, 18 has caviar and more! Open daily from 10am – 7pm / Centre Bord’eau village Hangar, 18, Centre commercial / 05 56 58 89 67
Le Comptoir Bordelaise is a larger shop with regional goods from Bas-Armegnac to chocolate covered Sauternes raisins. It is located very close to the Grand Theatre and open most days. The large selection makes is an easy stop to pick up something as a gift from your trip to Bordeaux! Open daily, hours vary / 76 CRS Georges Clemenceau, 33000 Bordeaux / 05 56 79 22 61
TOPA Comptoir Basque is near Porte Cailhou and has a bar attached open in the evenings to enjoy Basque food and wine! The shop itself is small with very nice, niche goods and they have the Basque piment espelette hot sauce I love! Open Wednesday – Saturday from 6pm-1am / 7 rue du palais de l’ombrière, 33000, Bordeaux / 06 01 00 90 70
If you are in the marché des Capucins, you will find a spice stall called Mascaret Bay most days, with plenty of regional items and nice mixtures to make your own rhum punch from Réunion Island / https://www.mascaretbay.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html
There are multiple focused ‘épicerie’ styled vendors in the Halles de Bacalan worth taking a look at, especially for truffled items / Open Tuesday-Sunday afternoon / Loxated opposite of the Cite du Vin Wine Museum / https://biltoki.com/nos-halles/bordeaux/
There are certainly more but enjoy your spice shopping wherever you may go!
Leave a Reply