There are so many wonderful wine bars in Bordeaux, but so many only offer charcuterie and cheese. Wine, in particular red wine, has been accompanied by cheese for ages. Tanins, like those in coffee and chocolate also, are softened by dairy. So it makes sense its a classic pairing. And who doesn't love some porc noir de Biggore with a nice glass of Chateau Ferriere (one of my favorite combinations at the wonderful bio wine bar Complain Terra). What if you want more? It's equally fun to try wines with different styles of food and in France, that's what wine is about - complimenting or enjoying with a dish! Here are some of my favourites in Bordeaux, which is your favourite?
Visiting Bordeaux in the summer is great with the stunning 18th century city, local sandy beaches and vineyards to visit! A lot of Bordeaux goes on holiday in August as well, so here are a list of some of the restaurants open that I'd recommend. I'll update as the restaurants respond so keep checking in. Most have online reservations through their website. Enjoy your summer trip and meals in Bordeaux!
If you have children, it's the biggest fear that your children will get sick or injured on vacation. Especially in a foreign country. France has wonderful healthcare, so that is a great relief. However, the system works differently from the USA. While I hope you don't need them, here are some tips and advice for when you're traveling with children and need to see a doctor or go to the hospital.
Named after the religious order that used to inhabit that area, the now famed covered market 'Marche des Capucins' is a sensory theme park. The noises, the smells, the stands of beautiful fruits and vegetables...maybe a local chef sighting as well?! It is best Wednesday-Sunday and often has seasonal finds that you cannot buy in other locations outside of the city, like wild garlic or cepes. When it first started in the 18th century, it was for the sale of cattle but over the next two centuries it morphed into what we see today. The covered roof was added in 1878 and still covers the 80 plus merchants inside.
One of my favorite things to do is simply walk aimlessly in cities. Saint Michel, which is the neighborhood around the Marche des Capucins in Bordeaux, is one of those lesser seen areas full of life! You'll find tajines, Halal butchers, Greek restaurants, upscale wine bars, historic churches, and picturesque facades. A unique multifaceted charm not yet uniformed by tourism.
Le Davoli (name derives from David, chef, and Olivier, sommelier) is a table Michelin rated restaurant in the Saint Pierre district of Bordeaux open since 2012. Offering a seasonal lunch menu of two courses for 30 EURO, they also offer evening menus from 49-68 EURO for three courses.
Having tried to get here twice before, I was very pleased to finally make it and to be able to share the meal with my friend, Ira of Lost in Bordeaux. Modjo is location on Rue des Herbes, a street we pass and discuss often on our culinary tours but have never taken the time to walk down. The façade is rather austere, the interior simple and clean. The menu price of 21 EUROs for the three course lunch was another wonderful surprise and even more hard to believe once you have finished your meal. How does France do it? This would be easily a 50 USD lunch in the USA. You get three courses, but also amuse bouche (small palate 'teasers') and it ends with mignardises (the final small, bite-sized sweet after dessert). For 21 EURO. Vive la France.
Chef Sylvain Renzetti is having serious fun creating delicious dishes using molecular techniques, varied ingredients and lots of talent. Their lunch menu at 24 EURO is one of the best offers in Bordeaux, but any time of day this restaurant is one not to miss.
Chefs in Bordeaux are creating some incredibly beautiful plates, with seasonal produce and plenty of creativity! Bordeaux has so many wonderful restaurants to choose from, including this off the beaten path charmer, La Chicoula.
The summer temperatures in Bordeaux can easily reach 90F, so where should you take lunch to escape the heat? Try these three options, from riverside to wine cellars, you’ll find a great meal!
which is an appellation created in the 1980's, but one in which wine has been made for thousands of years. In fact, the oldest wine producing chateau in the area is Chateau Pape Clement, named for Pope Clement V who started planting vines there in the 14th century.
Starting in 2019, we used our platform to share and promote the Women of Aquitaine. From historical figures like Aliénor of Aquitaine to modern day taste makers in wine like Chinedu Rita Rosa, we aim to highlight these incredible women who have shaped and are still influencing our world. Many are in the realm of food and wine in Bordeaux, but we cover many others like young pilots who share their images of the Bassin d'Arcachon, or photographers sharing the lives of female fisherman off the coast of La Rochelle.
One of my favorite places to visit on the coast are the ostréiculture cabins that offer platters of their oysters (and shrimp, pate) with local wines on benches while sitting in the summer sun, admiring the sparkling seaside. If you can't make it there though, where can you try some fresh local oysters in Bordeaux?
Sturgeon were once plentiful in the rivers nearby, however after decades of overfishing the fish was on the verge of extinction. The sturgeons are more prized for their eggs than their flesh these days . Until the early 20th century, the eggs would have been fed to the chickens as there was little interest in the production of caviar. That changed thanks to foreign interest and the production has only grown exponentially. 'Caviar d'Aquitaine'
Classic French Restaurants in Bordeaux that have been open decades, serving up those French classics like oeufs mimosa, choucroute, sole meuniere, and the Bordeaux classic entrecote a la Bordelaise...but these beautiful historic restaurants will serve up everything from fire roasted duck to chicken ballentine!
introduce you to high quality food and local products. While passing famous locations like the Grand Theatre or Place de la Bourse, maybe we will taste caviar, oysters, Landais duck and Basque goat cheese. Our food tours include Bordeaux wine, with a description of the many styles of local wines. It's not only bold reds in Bordeaux!
Built along the Garonne river, the historic part of the city is found on the left bank. If it feels like a mini Paris, you wouldn't be mistaken. 'Modern' 19th century Paris was modeled after 18th century Bordeaux. Even the Paris Opera was inspired by the Bordeaux Opera house. My favorite area to wander is probably along the narrow streets between the Grosse Cloche and the Eglise Saint Pierre. It's a great area to wonder around and find some of the old Medieval buildings on streets with names like 'Rue du Loup', named after the trades of people who used to work on them, in this case selling wolf skins. You can taste historic dishes like lamproie a la Bordelaise at the oldest restaurant La Tupina or more modern and unique meals at chef owned restaurant C'Yusha.
Bordeaux is a great city to visit - it's a lovely, smaller version of Paris (much of Paris was designed after it's 18th century design), but many come to learn more about the wine culture of Bordeaux. If you only have one day, there is plenty to explore in town. I'd invite you to spend at least two, because visiting a producer outside of town is a must, be it the famous Chateau Pape Clement which is accessible by public transport or the intimate, family owned producer of Chateau Beard la Chapelle in the hills near Saint Emilion.
When I was visiting Libourne a few months ago, I realized I needed to know more and knew just the person to ask - Jennifer Poe of 'My Bordeaux Tours', who is an experienced local tour guide and American expat living in Bordeaux. She is the blogger behind 'American Mom in Bordeaux' and has worked with multiple river cruise companies offering tours to their clients. Libourne has a lot to offer any visitor from walking along the port, wandering through the old bastide section of town, a lovely fine arts museum and exploring it's variety of stores, cafes and restaurants. Especially on market days, Tuesday, Friday and Sunday mornings - this town is alive and vibrant - not just around the holidays.
Truffle Farming came up the other day when a group of us were talking about finding truffle products locally. A friend, Nola D’Enis (culinary guide and writer), was mentioning a local truffle tree farm (truffiere) not to far from us that she had written about it a few years ago called Agri-Truffe. So, I paid them a visit. I had been writing about truffles in Dordogne (the epicenter for France) and decided to go a different route, what if you want to start your own truffle farm? Here are the experiences of three different people who started truffle farms - Alain Fabregues in Australia, Casey Yangeolva in Bularia, and Loic Luzinier in France.