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South-West France Desserts

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First of all, know that a ‘pain au chocolate’ is called a ‘chocolatine‘. The chocolate filled puff pastry dessert has the same taste, but a different name. Now that we have that covered…the South-West of France, like many parts of the country, has it’s own regional desserts which cannot be missed when you are visiting! Here are some of the best :

Saint-Emilion-Macaron-1.jpgMacarons – The classic macaron people think of when in France, is the Bordeaux or Parisian macaron. This is the pretty, colored and multiple flavored, delicate sandwich of almond-meringue cookies with a special cream or jelly center. Did you know that THE original macaron, the first one made 1620, was actually from Saint-Emilion. The small, idyllic countryside village in the vineyards is also where the first recipe for the Italian style macaron was made, which is almond flour and meringue, often sold on a paper disk.macaron

BUY in Saint Emilion at Les Macarons de Nadia Fermigier in their classic blue and white box at 9 Rue Gaudet. Open 8am-730pm in summer from Monday-Saturday and 9am-730pm on Sunday. Phone +33 (0)5 57 24 72 33 / http://www.macarons-saint-emilion.fr

 

Canele – Maybe you’ve seen the ridged conical shaped dessert and not know what it was. Legend has it that the nuns in Bordeaux created this dessert hundreds of years ago with the scraps from the many trading ships coming into town – vanilla and rum specifically – and the yolks of the eggs left over from winemakers using the whites to purify wine. Traditionally, they are made with copper molds, waxed with bees wax to prevent sticking on the interior which also makes the best for a crunchy exterior and lighter, soft interior.

BUY at the chain Baillardan or even take a class to learn how to make them in Bordeaux at 36 Place Gambetta. Open 8am-8pm Monday-Saturday and 930am-730pm on Sunday. Phone +33 (0)9 67 79 42 74 / http://www.baillardran.com

 

Dunes Blanches – Essentially a cream puff with crunchydunes-blanches-IMG_5700-1200x800.jpg sugar on the top, sometimes the simpler things in life are the best. Created in Arcachon, a coastal community, you can now find shops in Bordeaux as well.

BUY at Chez Pascal Dunes Blaches in Lege-Cap-Ferret at 46 Route du Cap Ferret. Open 630am-130pm and 4pm-8pm in summer. Phone – +33 (0)5 56 60 96 90 / http://boulangerie-chezpascal.com (check website for other locations)

 

Miques – These are something you won’t see everywhere, or all the time, as they are unique to the Easter period. They are sugary balls of dough with a light, sugary alcohol center. Making them is actually a really fun process and pretty simple compared to many French desserts.

BUY them in Bazas, during the Easter period, at Boulongerie Patisserie Sauboua at 5 General Cours de Gaulle. Open Monday-Saturday from 630am-100pm and 3pm-730pm and mornings on Sunday. Phone +33 (0)5 56 25 00 46 / http://www.http://boulangerie-sauboua.fr/

 

Puits d’Amour – Created in Captieux, about 15 minutes drive from Bazas, these can now be found in pastry shops all over the region. They are a light pastry with a light meringue center and a burned sugar top…think of a bite sized, airy crème brulee. Yeah.

BUY in many pastry shops in the region. The original location is in Captieux, but has since been sold to a new owner. Maison Seguin at 4 Rue de la Gare in Captieux. Open 715am-1230pm and 330pm-730pm Tuesday-Saturday and mornings on Sunday, closed Monday. Phone +33 (0)5 56 65 60 40 / https://www.facebook.com/Le-Puits-damour-de-Captieux-411526745637557/

 

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Jesuit – Is a flakey pastry with powdered sugar, frangipane and shaved almonds in a long, triangular shape ment to represent the hats worn by Jesuits. Said to have been created in Bordeaux, it’s one of my favorites, like a cross between an almond croissant and a mille-feuille?

You can find these in almost any shop in the region, so try a few and let me know what you think? In Bazas, at Boulongerie Patisserie Sauboua at 5 General Cours de Gaulle. Open Monday-Saturday from 630am-100pm and 3pm-730pm and mornings on Sunday. Phone +33 (0)5 56 25 00 46 / http://www.http://boulangerie-sauboua.fr/

 

 

 

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Bazas

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This town is easy to drive past, and off the typical tourist map, as there are no trains or public transportation to take you here from Bordeaux. Which is probably how everyone locally would like it to stay…a historical gem in the countryside. It’s location, just on the outskirts of Graves and before heading into the stark Landes was why it was once considered the last bit of civilization.

Walking into town is most idealic on Rue Fondespan, with it’s cobbled street and small businesses. This opens into the large Place de la Cathedrale, with Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Bazas (a UNESCO site) which was sadly vandalized during the Protestant reformation. The structure itself is still breathtaking and the small Jardin du Chapitre to the right is a lovely place to stroll and look over the valley below.

The town square is surrounded by arcaded buildings, some dating back to the 14th century. Take a walk down any of the side streets to see wooden timbered facades, ornate stonework and secret courtyards. To see Bazas on a Saturday morning, filled with stalls of vegetable, meats and local product vendors is like stepping back into time. It has to be one of the most beautiful markets in the area.

The Bazas Tourist Office is incredibly helpful and offers weekly tours on the history of Bazas or the ancient city hospital Apothecary. These tours need to be booked in advance and are only offered in French at this time. Please fill out the form below for someone to translate the tours for free.

 

For a town of under 5,000 people, there are a large number of really wonderful places to eat and you’ll likely never have a bad meal. All will over the famous boeuf Bazadais, a large breed of cattle which are raised upwards of seven years, living on grass in large pastures before slaughter. There is the yearly Fete des Boeufs Gras which can draw 10,000 visitors into town to watch these cattle parade down the streets, with flower decorations and local dancers in historic costume.

Bazas also holds a wonderful animation for the Fete de Saint Jean in June and the Fete de la Palombe in the autumn for hunting season. The energy of the town and the pride the Bazadais have for their history is clearly evident.

 

GUIDE

SEE

Cathedral Saint Jean – There is a mass in French on Sundays at 1030am, but you are welcome to visit and walk around anytime as the church remains open. There are occasional concerts inside as well as the Secrets of Bazas Tour which is at 1030am on Tuesdays starting April 16th for 5 Euro. Check the Bazas Tourism Office for events www.tourisme-sud-gironde.com

Apothecary of Hospital de Bazas – Attached to the old hospital, built in the 18th century and in use until only 50 years ago, the Apothecary is one of the best preserved in France. While not open to the public on a general basis, there are tours offered through the Bazas Tourism Office at 1 Place de la Cathedral. Contact to inquire on dates and times. Phone +33 (0)5 56 25 25 84 / www.tourisme-sud-gironde.com

Antiques Shops – there are many all over town, but Saturday is the best day to stop by as they will all be open. The owners are fun to talk with and discuss items histories, and while prices are usually good compared to big cities, if something seems too much, you can try to negotiate pricing. Hours vary.

 

STAY

Airbnb offers great options in town starting around 40 Euro a night, including our home…so why not stay with us?

Domaine de Fompeyre – 10 minutes by foot from town square, up on a hill overlooking the town, is this classical hotel with a restaurant and pool. Parking on site. Prices are very reasonable, starting around 65 Euro a night. 1 Fompeyre – Phone +33 (0)5 56 25 98 00 / reservation@domaine-de-fompeyre.com / http://domaine-de-fompeyre.com/

 

RESTAURANTS

Most are only open for lunch during the week and offer great menus starting at 14 Euros, but all will over a nice cut of Bazadais beef! Best to book in advance for weekends or evenings.

Caro&Co – South African female chef and co-owner with her French husband, this couple have a fabulous restaurant using local and seasonal products from nearby farms and shops. Plates are beautiful and often have lots of colorful vegetables, not seen in many French restaurants! 38 Place de la Cathedral – Open daily for lunch, dinner on Friday and Saturday, closed Wednesday and Sunday – Phone +33 (0)5 56 65 24 58 / www.restaurantcaroandco.fr

Boeuf Pop! – Friendly meat-centric restaurant popular with locals. They have a great terrace onto the Cathedral Square for taking in the spring sunshine. Local Bazadias beef, sheep and pork with duck fat fries…also have an amazing burger with local cheese and caramelized onions! 30 Place de la Cathedral – Open for lunch Monday – Saturday and dinner Friday/Saturday – +33 (0)5 56 65 77 56 / https://www.facebook.com/Leboeufpop

Indigo – Chef owned restaurant serving unique dishes with local ingredients and a SE Asian twist. Great valued lunch menu at 14 Euro. Perfect for a date night. Also own Café Noosa on Cathedral Square, which has a light salad lunch menu and is a great place to grab a coffee or ‘gouter’ (sweek snack). 25 Rue Fondespan – Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday – Saturday – Phone +33 (0)5 56 25 25 52 / https://www.thefork.com/restaurant/indigo/44162

 

BUY

Lamigeon – Pate and canned goods store in Bazas which has been making local products for nearly 80 years. You can find all sorts – wild boar, deer, fois gras and classic pate de campagne. If you are traveling back into the USA, I have made it through with canned products from there with no problem. Unique, reasonably priced gifts to give to family and friends, or to bring as a thank you for staying with someone! Open Wednesday-Saturday, from 10am-1230pm and 3pm-7pm – Phone +33 (0)5 56 65 58 49 / alainlamigeon@orange.fr / www.lamigeon.fr/

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Bazas Food and Farm Tour

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  • 10am Visit fois gras farm to learn how fois gras is made and taste products
  • 11am Bazas tour of city and learn the history of this UNESCO cathedral village
  • 1230pm Stop by butcher who will show us the famous Bazadais beef cuts
  • 1pm Lunch of Bazadais beef cooked by chef and owner of local restaurant
  • 3pm Visit goat cheese farm

 

 

 

Boucherie Bazas Tbone,entrecote and rumpstakeTour, with translator and guide starts at 100 Euro per person (two person minimum) and includes all visiting fees, tasting fees, and a lunch of Bazadais beef with dessert and one glass of graves wine. Tours offered on Monday, Thursday and Friday.

Please be sure to advise of any food allergies or aversions at least one week in advance.

Can also include chauffeured car with pick up from nearby train station in Langon, please contact us for pricing.

Please bring comfortable clothing and closed toe shoes (preferably ones you don’t mind getting a little dirty)

Feel free to ask questions and have fun! These are small farms and this is the livelihood for these farmers / butchers / chefs and their families and they are happy to share their passions with you!

This tour will happen, rain or shine, so please dress for the occasion 😊

 

Bazas Food and Farm Tour

• 10am Visit fois gras farm to learn how fois gras is made and taste products • 11am Bazas tour of city and learn the history of this UNESCO cathedral village • 1230pm Stop by butcher and meet butcher who will show us the famous Bazadais beef cuts • 1pm Lunch of Bazadais beef cooked by chef and owner of local restaurant • 3pm Visit goat cheese farm

€100.00

 

 

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France Culinary Tour May 2019

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All-inclusive, six nights and seven days in the culinary capital of the world with Anne Jordan from May 6-May 12, 2019! Want to read more about your guide? Click About ATG

We will spend three days in Paris and four days in Bordeaux exploring the idyllic French countryside and seeing some of the ‘real’ France. If you love the Farm-to-Table movement, this trip is for you! All hotels, meals, visits, and transportation is included in the price.*

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Paris is a must-see on many visitors lists, as the magical Eiffel Tower, Louvre Museum and River Seine are a dream! This tour will include stops at all of these locations, but will also include visits to incredible Michelin restaurants and markets, bakeries and cheese shops. Some highlights are :

Rungis – the largest wholesale food market in the world with warehouses full of fruit, vegetable, cheese, fish and meat

Marche des Enfants Rouge – the oldest, continually running food market in Paris with unique food stalls to enjoy lunch before exploring the Marais quarter

Michelin Restaurants – Dine daily at a Michelin starred restaurant, past visits have included La Tour Argent, Le Clarence, Dominique Bouchet and L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

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Bordeaux, known worldwide for its top red wines and as a major historical port of call, this city has recently enjoyed a renaissance with tourists with the newly opened Cite du Vin. The city is charming and full Michelin meals but is also surrounded by some of the top producers of fine edible (and drinkable!) products.

Ferrandi-BEST – One of the top culinary schools in France, see where the top chefs are trained and enjoy a gourmet lunch made by the students

Local farmers and producers – From fois gras to caviar, lamprey eels to oyster cultivation…and of course some of the beautiful vineyards producing fine French wines

Don’t worry, there will be plenty of ‘down’ time to enjoy time to yourself and explore on your own or to arrange private side tours based on your interests.

Price is 4,679 USD per person, based on double occupancy in three-star hotels. Should you desire four-star hotels, please add 700 USD per person for double occupancy. 400 USD deposit is due at time of booking and is non-refundable unless the 10 guest minimum is not met by March 31, 2019. 

*Prices do not include airfare, health insurance or spending money. Exact tour description may change based on availability and size of the group. Please be available to meet in Paris by 11am on May 6 and be available throughout the day of May 12.

Contact aquitaineguide@gmail.com for more information or to schedule a meeting one-on-one, via FaceTime, Skype or in person in Winston-Salem, NC.

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Water to Cool Off During the Gironde Summer

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Casteljaloux and it’s Sandy Beaches
Water Slide at Bazas Pool
New 2018 Pool in Bazas

If the end of June is any indicator, this summer is going to be a hot one! Here are some of our favorite places to swim during these sweltering days (click name for maps and links in articles for more information) Lather on the sunblock before heading out! :

Arcachon – About 45 minutes from Bordeaux, although traffic in high season and on weekends can double that. Parking happens to be free on Wednesdays, but it’s a great place to go any day of the week. Arrive early in the day (Place de Verdun is a quick and easy walk to the many beaches). Bring your beach umbrella and pack a picnic, or have lunch at any number of the restaurants in town. Most restaurants do not have the best hot meals, but a fresh seafood platter with local oysters and shrimp will certainly hit the spot! Dogs are not allowed so best to leave them at home.

Bazas – Should you find yourself in the SE of Gironde, this charming town with UNESCO protected cathedral, arcaded town square and many wonderful chef-owned restaurants specializing in regional cuisine with local products, is well worth a visit. Plus, the newly opened public pool with its large water slide is a hit with the kids! There are also two kiddie pools, one for the under three and one with waist-high water for older kids. Two euro fee for adults and kids under five are free. Hours in July and August are 1100-1300 / 1500-1900 with closure on Sunday. Small snack bar with drinks and ice cream, lockers require a one euro coin.

Biscarrosse – Low lying lake water that is only up to your knees, which is great for small children as you don’t need to worry about waves and tides. This area is popular with families and has areas for your furry friends as well. Pack a picnic and be prepared to look for parking in high season, but at least it’s free! There are water sports and there is plenty of camping available nearby and hotels.

Cap Ferret – only a 30-minute ferry ride from Arcachon (although you can access from the North by car) you will want to rent or bring a bicycle with you to get to the quietest beaches. Off season is great and you can almost have the whole beach to yourself outside of July and August. There are infinite oyster shacks to have a lunch with a view of the Bassin. Ferries hours may vary, so be sure to check, but generally are on the hour from Arcachon, and on the half hour back (with a pause between 1200-1400). No need to book ferries in advance as you should find places even at the height of the season. Tickets are 15 euro round trip and leave from the Jetee Thieres in Arcachon.

Casteljeloux – Famous for its spas and thermal water, this town just outside of Gironde in Lot-et-Garonne has the Lac de Clarens, a man-made lake. With sandy shores to build sand castles, boat rentals, golfing and a casino (!). Not a lot of shade, so you’ll want to bring an umbrella but there is a restaurant and you can picnic. Outside of season, it is free, however, during July-August, there is a fee of 2.50 for adults.

Hostens – Close to Louchat and Le Barp, Lac de Lamothe is another man-made lake with paddle boat rentals, hiking trails, camping and a snack bar with panini, ice creams and drinks. Lots of shade from the pine trees on the outer edge, but bring your umbrella if you want to be closer to the water. Free entrance and parking with space for dogs offseason.

Lac d’Espiet is an old quarry with beautiful, clear water about 20 minutes from Saint Emilion. They also have a lakeside restaurant, water sports, and kids water recreation area. There is sand on the shore, but some parts are a bit rocky in the water so water shoes might be nicer to those with delicate feet. Some shade is available from the nearby pines and there isn’t too much space to set up an umbrella. Adults are five euro entrance, kids under 3 free. Parking is free, but you are not allowed to bring a picnic (I have seen people kicked out for bringing food in, however…). Dogs are not welcome on bathing beaches.

 

 

 

La Lamproie (Lamprey Eel)

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Last year I visited Le Cabestan Ferme du Pêcheur in Sainte-Terre near Saint Emilion, which was so unique and fun!  I learned something totally new and unfamiliar…the lamproie (lamprey eel). David and Sabine Durand make these prehistoric creatures their livelihood. This third generation fishing ‘farm’, which is seasonal work until early May, is unique.  It is completely dependant on the seasonal migration of older eels, making their last swim upstream from the sea.

The Durand family has an incredibly well-run operation, from fishing to cooking to presentations for kids and adults. If you want to see something out of the ordinary, taste something very regional (like the lamproie rillettes or slowly cooked eel in red wine) or learn about an unusual species – this would be the place to do it. Visits are 15 euro per person and include a tour, video, and tasting (degustation).

Cooking demos or lessons can also be arranged in advance, like the one I took last week. It’s a really interesting cleaning process, explained very well by Sabine. Ultimately, the ancient method of cooking is relatively simple…slowly boiling the eel in red wine with leeks, bay leaf, salt and pepper (and a secret herb Sabine adds to her particular recipe). You even end up with your own dinner to take home.

The lamproie is out of favor and not eaten regularly, even locally.  It’s seen as a special dish for holidays and events. However, some restaurants in Saint Emilion, Sainte-Terre and even Langon are serving up the dish. Some chefs have included more recent cooking techniques, like sautéing the eel with a dusting of flour before stewing.  Hopefully keeping people informed, as they do with school visits, and teaching visitors will keep this local, seasonal product around for the next generation.

Le Cabestan Ferme du Pecher can be found on Facebook or on their website http://www.lamproie.fr/ which is filled with more information, photos and videos / 2 Port Peytor, Sainte-Terre 33350 / Phone +33 (0)6 20 89 41 84 or contact directly through Facebook and website / Hours vary depending on the season.

When live eels are not available at the farm, you can also visit the Jardin de la Lamproie museum to see live specimens at 231 Rue du Général de Gaulle, 33350 Sainte-Terre (5 minute drive).

*Only available in French at this time.

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Saint Macaire

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Ethereal Dome of Saint-Sauveur
Art Gallery
Artist Maud Langlois
Collective of Simone et les Mauhargats
Old Rock Quarry
Beautiful Stone Work
Along the Garonne
Restaurant Belle Lurette
Pretty Street in Saint Macaire

SAINT MACAIRE

Aquitaine is a region of a thousand villages so choosing which one to visit is never easy (even for those of us living here!). In the summer months, there are so many fun events that you’ll always feel like you’re missing something. In the winter, while many shops may be closed and some feel like a ghost town, visiting during those cold months is a great way to explore and discover a village in solitude and at your own pace. Plan ahead by contacting the Saint Macaire tourist office at least a week in advance and you can still get a guided tour (only in French, however).

Saint Macaire has an amazing, festive medieval fair in the summer – with crafts, gastronomy, beverages, and costume (even fireworks at night!). The old ramparts, private homes and village center, ‘Place de Mercadiou’, all display their beautiful architecture and history. The village is equally stunning in the winter; when you can admire the cobbled streets and stone-framed windows or bask in awe of the ethereal dome of the Saint-Sauveur church.

Visit the local artisan store and art gallery of Simone et les Mauhargats to find postcards, prints, bags and other creative crafts made by hand. The gallery on the upper level recenty had Maud Langlois of Bordeaux whose etching I was given and absolutely love!

During the summer months, the restaurant L’Abricotier is a wonderful place to sit outside under the trees and enjoy some really great local cuisine with quality products and lots of ambiance. For a quick, inexpensive meal where you can eat like a local, try La Belle Laurette. It’s bar style service, no frills but the price is right and it’s tasty. Wherever you decide to eat, don’t miss an opportunity to have a glass of Saint Macaire wine (sadly, the rare Saint Macaire grape isn’t grown in the region anymore).

GUIDE

SEE

Saint-Sauveur Church – 12th-century church with artwork gracing its interior and splendid painted apse – Hours may vary depending on church services – 9 Place de l’Église Saint Macaire

Simone et Les Mauhargats – https://www.simoneetlesmauhargats.com/ – Friendly art gallery and artisan collective with something to please anyone, on any budget. Events as well, such as art classes or coffee meetups – 19 rue Carnot Saint Macaire – Open daily from 10am – 630pm with lunch break, and Wednesday / Sunday from 12pm – 6pm – Phone +33 (0)9 67 01 24 33 or simoneetlesmauhargats@gmail.com

RESTAURANTS

L’Abricotier – http://www.restaurant-labricotier.com/ – charming, well-priced restaurant with great produce and service; in summer you can enjoy sitting under the pergola or under the large trees – 2 rue Bergoeing Saint Macaire – Open Tuesday – Sunday for lunch and dinner – Reservations via phone +33 (0)5 56 76 83 63 / restaurant.abricotier@wanadoo.fr or you can also make reservations through LaFourchette

La Belle Lurette – lhttp://www.bar-labellelurette.com – locals, no thrills restaurant with good 12 Euro weekday lunch menu (I had 1/2 duck breast and fries); events and bands playing year round, check the website for more information -2 Place du Général de Gaulle – Open for lunch-only all week and dinner Saturdays – Reservations via phone +33 (0)5 56 63 02 42 or LaForuchette 

 

Sauternes

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Portes Ouvertes Sauternes
Portes Ouvertes Sauternes
Noble Rot on a Semillon grape
Noble Rot on a Semillon grape
Clos-Haut Payraguey vines
Clos-Haut Payraguey vines
Auberge les Vignes
Auberge les Vignes
Maison du Sauternes tasting
Maison du Sauternes tasting

SAUTERNES

Of all the local towns, the one my daughter knows best, is Sauternes. It’s not for the wine, but for their swing set in the playground (we don’t have swings here in Bazas).

Sauternes is one of my favorite little villages as well.  It’s rather idyllic with well maintained, provincial homes and rows of lovely grapevines streaming the slight hills, changing color with the seasons. There are great restaurants and a wonderful wine collective called the Maison du Sauternes where you can go a sample almost any version of the sweet Sauternes that was ever made for free (Chateau Y’quem is one exception, however it also costs around 70 euro to visit the chateau so no big surprise!).

You need not spend more than an hour walking around the town, but you could easily spend a morning here, visiting the chateau nearby (Chateau Filot is right next door, with its charming owner and decadent wines you can taste in the chai), perusing the book of wine at the Maison du Sauternes and then a classic, rich Southwestern lunch of duck breast and fois gras at the Auberge les Vignes.

If you’re lucky enough to be here in the autumn, you might just get to see the ‘noble rot’ which makes these wines so sweet and unique. It is a fungus that grows on the grapes due to the humidity and micro-climate created by the lands location between the Ciron and Garonne Rivers. The grapes shrivel and the juices condense, making them sweeter. The incredible guide (who speaks perfect English) at Château Clos Haut-Peyraguey gave a wonderful tour where we were able to sample the shriveled Semillon grapes (if you like!).

There is also a local tourism office just across the street from Le Saprien if you want to get advice on what else to see in the area. Always keep an eye out for events like the Portes Ouverts where the chateau offer tastes of their new vintages with arts, food and music or the Fete du Vin de Sauternes held in late May/early June every year.

GUIDE 

SEE

Maison du Sauternes – http://www.maisondusauternes.com/ – great place to get information on all of the local wines, degustation and visits for local vineyards – hours vary by season so be sure to check their website – open 7/7 from 9am-7pm (summer) – Phone +33 (0)5 56 76 69 83 or email contact@maisondusauternes.com

Visit any of the amazing chateau around Sauternes by asking at Maison du Sauternes, calling the individual chateau or using any of the available websites listing wineries. Most chateau are free, or request a nominal fee for a visit plus tasting. Some of my favorites are mentioned in the blog.

 

RESTAURANTS

Auberge les Vignes – https://www.aubergelesvignes.fr/le-restaurant/ –  great service, kid friendly, great value with local products and local clientele, nice fireplace in winter. 23 Rue Principale – open Tuesday-Sunday (lunch only) – Reserve via phone +33 (0)5 56 76 60 06 or email aubergelesvignes@orange.fr

Le Saprien – http://www.restaurant-le-saprien.fr/ – best in warm weather when you can sit on the terrace and look at the vines, can have an uppity vibe, with good value set-lunch menu. 14 Rue Principale – open Tuesday-Sunday (lunch only) – Reserve via www.lafourchette.com or click link on website. +33 (0)5 56 76 60 87.

Chateau Trillon – http://chateau-trillon.fr/z/index.php – little outside of central Sauternes, friendly service with family style food, good value. Chateau Trillon Cap Lanne – open – Reserve via phone +33 (0)6 84 79 22 71 or email contact@chateau-trillon.fr

 

Saint Emilion

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SAINT EMILION

As an American, one of the best-known wines in the Bordeaux region are the reds of Saint Emilion. Honestly, once you are in the Bordeaux region it seems funny that we should be so aware of these reds, seeing they are generally from small, family-owned vineyards and produced in minute quantities compared to those of Medoc (for example). The drive is easy and beautiful from Bordeaux and it’s worth arriving by car so that you can take advantage of the visits available at the many chateaus nearby.

There are times of year one might wish to avoid visiting, say the month of January when everything is closed…or the height of tourist season in July and August when the town is swarming. However, even in the month of February when restaurants and cavists are only just reopening, you will find plenty to see and do without crowds.

Saint Emilion is a stunning village with the UNESCO heritage denotation, which feeds its notoriety. It is small, easy to walk around in a day (without heels) and charming. The winding, cobbled streets, only add to the allure. Once named Ausonius, the name changed to Saint Emilion after the saint decided to call it home for a good portion of his life. If there is one tour you should take, outside of the vineyards, it’s the monolithic church tour which takes about an hour and costs 9 euro. You will learn a great deal of history, architecture, and folklore.

What is tricky about most wines in the Bordeaux region is that they vary in taste from house to house, based on differential grape blends, materials used during aging, and the very unique distinction of terroir (environmental factors such as soil and climate). Around Saint Emilion you find lots of gravel, sand, limestone, and clay which can add different mineral or earthiness to the grapes.  Merlot is the main grape variety, but you will see the subtle richness this grape gives to local wines versus the typical Australian or American wine.

If you can, take a hotel and enjoy tasting the many wines and discussing the viniculture with the shopkeepers. Many shops are owned by a certain chateau and are great at promoting their wines, but are equally keen on helping you discover your own favorite. My recent visit brought me to Australian cavist Craig Stanford of Bordeaux Classique who introduced us to the 2012 Tour de Seme from Chateau Milens. This was a great example of what I find to be the perfect, classic, light and red-fruity wine from the Saint Emilion AOC.

Besides wine, Saint Emilion is also famous for their light, airy macaron cookies (not to be confused with the Bordelaise macaron which is the classic, colorful ‘sandwich’ filled with jams or creams). The local version is generally sold attached to a piece of paper, with the original recipe from the 17th century being used at Macarons Ferlion. You can read more about the history of the Saint Emilion macaron on the Eat Live Write Travel Blog.

Restaurants can be a little hard; worrying about bad food might be on the back of your mind. In general, the food will be good, no matter where you eat. Many of the finer (Michelin) restaurants will require a deposit to avoid no-shows. If you have allergies or aversions, please let the restaurants know in advance. Feel free to contact me for recommendations.

GUIDE

VISIT

Monolitic Church – impressive crypts, chapel and early Christian church built into the limestone with a visit to the hermitage of Saint Emilion. One hour, only in French (save for the summer tours) but they do offer a paper handout in English to help you through the visit – http://www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com/uk/3-what-to-do/20-underground/438-underground-saint-emilion.html – Hours vary; buy your tickets at the Saint Emilion tourist office who can also give you a list of the chateau open that day for visits.

Bordeaux Classique Wine Shop – filled with Bordeaux wines of all budgets, and other French wines. Friendly, English speaking cavists, worldwide shipping and degustations available – http://www.bordeaux-classique.com/ – Open 9am – 8pm every day – 15, rue de la Porte Bouqueyre – Phone +33 (0)5 57 74 49 49 or email bordeauxclassique@bordeauxclassique.com

 Macarons Ferlion – small confectionery selling ‘the original’ Saint Emilion macarons – http://www.macarons-saint-emilion.fr/Accueil.html  – Open (hours vary slightly by season) every day from 8am – 730pm – Phone +33 (0)5 57 24 72 33 and email contact@macarons-saint-emilion.com

Pessac-Leognan

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PESSAC-LEOGNAN

The Pessac-Leognan AOC region was my first experience of the wine growing regions in SW France thanks to my husbands family from the area. The real estate prices have jumped in the last decade and suburban developments keep popping up, but luckily, there are still lovely vines covering most of the land around Leognan, dotted with stunning chateaux and rustic villages.

The wines of Pessac-Leognan may not be as familiar as some of the Medoc vintages, but they are equally delicious. Rich, tannin-filled, reds from grapes such as merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc grapes, along with some lovely fresh, floral whites from sauvignon-blanc, semillion and muscadelle grapes. Thomas Jefferson was a fan of these local wines as well.

A favorite white is from Carbonnieux, well worth a visit to the vineyard and chai for degustation (reservation required for the tour, ask for English if necessary). The owner has a nice collection of vintage French cars to view as well.

Most of the chateau, like Haut-Bailly (great Pessac-Leognan red), have separate rooms in their chai or chateau to offer groups meals prepared by the chef in-house. These meals need to be reserved in advance and are generally rather pricey. However, Chateau Leognan, which is a newer ‘chateau’, even though the vines have been around forever, does offer a menu at lunch at their restaurant La Manege for around 35 euro. It’s not always local style food…but it’s priced right. They also have beautiful grounds to walk around and a nice wine shop complete with children’s play area (genius!).

One of our favorite restaurants is the Le Resinier in Le Barp (20-minute drive from Leognan), for its great value on traditional SW French food in a casual environment. It’s wonderful with children in the summer when you can eat outdoors and let them play in the grass. From fois gras to oysters, you won’t be disappointed.

However, if you really want something special, Smith Haut-Lafitte in Martillac has not only great wine but ‘Les Sources de Caudalie’ spa and products, a hotel and three places to eat (from Michelin starred La Grande Vigne to a tapas style bar). Goop recently rated their spa as one of the nine most luxurious in the world, ahem.

After all the wining and dining, take a trip to the home of Montesquieu (a great philosopher of the 17th century) in La Brede, which is a family estate rich with French history and perfect for a lovely walk inside and out. Guided tours only, check website for hours.

The whole of France is littered with WWII history. If you happen to drive past the monument mémorial de la ferme de Richemont near Saucats, stop and get out to read the memorial to the 13 adolescents that lost their lives. It’s in the middle of a field and the quiet is almost eerie.

GUIDE

SEE

Cheateau Montesquieu at La Brede – beautiful home with interesting history on the man and French construction through the ages –  http://www.chateaulabrede.com/en/ – Avenue du Château – 33650 La Brède – check website for visiting hours as they vary by time of year – Phone +33 (0)5 56 78 47 72 and email guidechateaulabrede@gmail.com

Spa at Sources de Caudalie – for a break from all the vineyard visits, give your skin a little treat from the vine with Caudalie products – https://www.sources-caudalie.com/ – Chemin de Smith Haut Lafitte – 33650 Bordeaux-Martillac – contact directly  Phone +33 (0)5 57 83 83 83 and email vino@caudalie.com

Leognan Magnum – local wine shop filled with nearly every Pessac-Leognan chateau you could want, at good prices with very helpful staff. Often a few bottles on hand to taste and they help with shipping – http://www.leognanmagnum.com/ – Open Monday – Friday 930am-1230pm and 230pm-7pm, Saturday 930am-1pm and 330pm-7pm – 5 Cours de Mal de Lattre de Tassigny – 33850 Leognan – Phone +33 (0)5 56 64 74 08

 

RESTAURANTS

Le Resinier – Classic, rustic, SW French cuisine using local products. Set in the countryside at a local Bed & Breakfast – http://www.leresinier.com/ – 68, Avenue des Pyrénées – 33114 LE BARP – Reserve on their website or Phone +33 (0)5 56 88 60 07 and email contact@leresinier.comRESTAURANTS

La Manege – good value, home-style seasonal cooking like fresh fish with chorizo and peppers at Chateau Leognan. Good for groups too – http://www.lemanege-leognan.fr/ – 88, Chemin du Barp – 33850 Léognan – Phone +33 (0) 5 57 67 13 84 or email info@chateauleognan.fr

 

Bordeaux

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Solena
Solena
Marche des Quais
Marche des Quais
Fountaine des Chevaux
Opera National de Bordeaux and Intercontinental Hotel
Tome with Truffle at Jean d’Alos

24 Hours in Bordeaux

I don’t get much time alone, which is why most of my knowledge of the area comes with ‘kid friendly’ suggestions. Here is the best of Bordeaux in 24 hours…alone (or with your love).

If you can avoid, at all costs, driving into Bordeaux, you will save yourself a few grey hairs. The city is one of the most anti-car places I have ever driven. If you must, please park the first parking place you find, make sure you pay parking if necessary and just get out and walk. There is no metro, only buses and trams, which is why driving is so hectic. They are constantly adding lines and doing construction, so your GPS is often useless. I’ve had a bollard come up under my car in Bordeaux while following Waze. It’s just not worth it. If you arrive by train to the Gare Saint-Jean train station, take a tram C straight to the Place de la Bourse (15 minutes) and walk from there into the historic center of town.

Many of my friends choose to take AirBnB for their times in Bordeaux (and have had good experiences); I prefer hotels. When I have 24 hours to myself, the last thing I want to do is worry about how clean a place will be or having to make my own coffee. There are plenty of well priced chain hotels in and near the center; I stayed at the Quality Hotel Bordeaux Center. No frills, clean and well located with toiletries. It was also well priced and under 100 Euro for a Saturday night, though I only had a single bed.

The first Sunday of the month, all museums are free. The Musee d’Aquitaine is my favorite, following the first settlements in the area until after WWII. It was fascinating, beautiful and at times grotesquely interesting. Bordeaux and Frances history with slavery is intense. Give yourself at least an hour to walk around and take in the relics.

While the Cite du Vin is the world’s largest (and probably most intensive) wine museum, it’s not the only one in town. If you are in Bordeaux and want Bordelaise history, check out the Musee de Vin et du Negoce de Bordeaux. It is only about the local trade history and has some really interesting points and very helpful guides, along with a tasting of local wines at the end. They also sell a really essential wine book, in English, called The Bordeaux Wine Guide which has everything you would ever need to know.

Simply wandering around Bordeaux is such a calming experience after running around with two small children all day! Walking along the Garonne River at night and viewing the mirror fountain in front of the Bourse, or taking the river in on Sunday morning when there is the local market and tasting some fresh oysters from nearby Arcachon.  Then there is the shopping on Rue Saint Catherine, which is even partly open on Sunday*.

Of course, no visit would be complete without amazing meals. If you happen to be in the area (little off tourist path) and are not put off by crowds, try having lunch at the Bordeaux Marche du Capucins. It has a little taste of anything and everything and will be filled with tourists and locals alike. If you would prefer a sit down meal, with reservation, there are also plenty of places to choose from – most with Sunday lunch available. Some of my favorites are Miles (fellow Ferrandi culinary school graduates), Solena, and C’Yusha. They’re run well, clean and the food is always creative, beautifully plated and delicious for under 25 euro at lunch during the week. Can’t go wrong.

Granted 24 hours isn’t that long, but if you’re able to fit all of the above in I think you’ll discover you simply need to come back for more!

GUIDE

SEE

Musee d’Aquitaine – http://www.musee-aquitaine-bordeaux.fr/enMusee d’Aquitaine – excellent museum with detailed descriptions and original artifacts on the history of the region over thousands of years…and a nice little shop – 20 Cours Pasteur – Parking nearby or take Tram B to Musee d’Aquitaine  – open Tuesday thru Sunday, from 11am – 6pm (closed bank holidays) – Phone +33 (0)5 56 01 51 00 or email musaq@bordeaux.fr

Musee du Vin et du Negoce – http://www.museeduvinbordeaux.com/ – Small and intimate museum with nice collection of local relics related to the wine trade, located in old wine tradesmans home – 41 Rue de Borie – Tram B Chartrons or Tram C Camille Godard – open daily, holidays included (save Christmas and New Years Day) 10am – 6pm – Phone +33 (0)5 56 90 19 13 or email musee41@gmail.com

SHOP

Jean d’Alos Fromager – http://www.fromages-jean-dalos.com/– friendly shop keepers and some luxurious cheeses (like truffled tomme) that you’ll have to eat to avoid stinking up your hotel room! – 4 Rue Montesquieu –  Tram B Gambetta – Open Tuesday thru Wednesday 9am – 1pm and 3pm – 730pm, Thursday thru Saturday 9am – 8pm – Phone +33 (0)5 56 44 29 66 or email j.dalos@fromage-jean-dalos.com

Mollat – https://www.mollat.com/ – largest, privately owned bookstore in the world with a decent foreign section and cookbook section. Buy an adorable ‘Macaron et Canele’ book for your child to remember their trip to Bordeaux – 15 Rue Vital-Carles – Tram B Gabetta Madd – open Monday thru Saturday 930am – 730pm and first Sunday of month from 2pm – 6pm – Phone +33 (0)5 56 56 40 40 or email through website

Great article with more ideas for your shopping by The Telegraph

STAY

Quality Hotel Bordeaux Center – http://www.qualityhotelbordeauxcentre.com/ – Clean, friendly, secure and well located hotel to rest your head after a long day out and about in Bordeaux – Prices starting around 90 euro off season for a single – 27 Rue du Parlament Saint Catherine – Phone +33 (0)5 56 81 95 12 or email quality.bordeaux@wanadoo.fr

EAT

Miles – http://en.restaurantmiles.com/ – small, contemporary dinning, open kitchen with bar style seating to watch chefs, relaxed atmosphere, with fresh and seasonal produce. Excellent lunch menu for 24 euro – 33 Rue du Cancera – Tram A Place du Palace – open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and Saturday for dinner – Phone +33 (0)5 56 81 18 24 or email info@restaurantmiles.com but you can book through their website

Solena – http://www.solena-restaurant.com/ – located a little off the main tourist area, the friendly staff serving beautiful plates and creative amuse buches and mignardices (the chocolate truffle in december was ridiculous). Great value at 24 euro for lunch during the week – 5 Rue Chaffour – open Wednesday dinner and Thursday – Sunday for lunch and dinner  – Phone +33 (0)5 57 53 28 06 or email contact@solena-restaurant.com but you can also book through their website

C’Yusha – http://www.cyusha.com/ –  cave like dinning room where fun and creative dishes, with familiar ingredients presented in often unique ways are served up. Another amazing lunch at – Tuesday – Thursday for lunch and Tuesday – Saturday for dinner – 12 Rue Ausone – Phone +33 (0)5 56 69 89 70 or reserve through website

*Quick tip – there is a Starbucks on Rue Saint Catherine…but no toilet! I usually use Starbucks as my emergency in France, alas not this one. Check around the shopping plaza near the Starbucks and you will find public toilets.