Saints de Glace

by Simona Palenga

After a few days of grey sky, we almost forgot it is already late spring.

The temperature dropped considerably last weekend and only since Thursday, it is going slowly up, back to the usual for this time of the year.

It is no surprise for the French, we just left behind the ‘Ice Saints’!

Despite being a pretty secular society, they can’t help but trust Saint-Mamertus, Saint-Pancras and Saint-Servatius, 11th, 12th and 13th of May. Respectively, these days are considered as the last ones that might bring nightly frosts and only after these three days it is safe to plant in the garden the most sensible plants: tomatoes, peppers, zucchini and pumpkins.

Saint Mamertus, who lived in the 5th century, is the only one with a real connection to the farming world: he’s the founder of the rogations, processions followed by prayer, that farmers hold on to for good crops (read more here).

I have always looked at this tradition with skepticism, and this year, I decided I trusted the weather forecast better than medieval beliefs.

Winter has been particularly mild, so I planted my tomatoes two weeks back… along with every other single sprout I had worked on since late February.

Well, the curse of the Saints took a modern twist, sending hail for 10 minutes, followed by 36 hours of intense rain. In total, 24 of my tomato plants ended up like Marie Antoinette, decapitated by ice.

If you are in the countryside, you will find French who decided to take a slow pace towards de-confined life, happily bent over, in their veggie patches, planting tomatoes and marigolds.

Mammertus

An engraving of Saint Mamertus from an 1878 book, Little Pictorial Lives of the Saints @wikipedia

Organic, Local or Seasonal?

asparagus from Saint Symphorien

(Pour lire dans Français ou une autre langue, s’il vous plaît vérifier sur le côté de la main de la plate-forme de la page pour le bouton à traduire)

The produce stand can be a challenge in supermarkets, everything is available nearly all of the time…and it maybe even says ‘organic’ or ‘bio’ which is a great idea. In France, if you are buying in your local market you’ll find the best selection of local and seasonal produce but it may not be organic. So what is better for you? Which is better for the environment?

Local. How local is local? Let’s say that the products are only being transported from the farm to point of sale (market), or that you are buying from the farm directly where you can see how everything is managed up close. This is going to have a low carbon footprint, but you will also being helping farmers immediately in your community. There are plenty of farms that you can buy locally from or sign up for their weekly delivery of seasonal products through an AMAP.

Organic. Buying only based on the word ‘organic’ or ‘bio’ is generally going to be the worst choice for the environment. It is likely produce that is coming from Spain (in Europe) and grown in very unsustainable methods, in dry landscapes with row after row of greenhouses where water has to be diverted to. Then it is also being transported long distances, adding to its carbon footprint. Many smaller farms find achieving official organic status impossible because of the many government demands, when in reality they essentially are. Farms listed as biodynamic are immediately given organic status, as their farming methods are rigidly controlled by natural systems.

https://orgprints.org/31197/1/willer-lernoud-2017-global-data-biofach.pdf

Seasonality. Then there is the idea of seasonality, because nothing tastes better than a tomato in August or a strawberry in June. The idea that we eat only those items available during a certain time of year is really only natural and ensures the best version of that product. Plus, many vegetables that grow during a certain time of year supply our bodies with what our bodies need during that season, like a watermelon supplying our body with more water in the summer and mushrooms being high in Vitamin D which is needed in the winter.

Local farms with pick up and delivery are available on our website but we want to hear about your favorite local product! Send us an email or post it on Facebook at Aquitaine Travel Guide! Right now is asparagus and strawberries-enjoy!

Wonderful video describing exactly this, by Aysin Karaduman of The Omnivorist : http://theomnivorist.com/2018-ato-113/

Helping Our Local Farms / Aider Nos Fermes Locales(FRANCE)

Assurez-vous de suivre Facebook et Instagram pour les mises à jour toute la journée avec les fermes locales et leurs produits pour commande @AquitaineTravelGuide https://m.facebook.com/AquitaineTravelGuide

If you want to help your farms by offering to work for them, check these two sites / Si vous voulez aider vos fermes en travaillant sur eux, consultez ces deux sites – https://desbraspourtonassiette.wizi.farm and https://www.lagriculture-recrute.org/

FERMES A BAZAS ET LANGON https://aquitainetravelguide.com/helping-local-farms-aider-nos-fermes-locales/bazas-et-langon-fermes

FERMES PROCHE DE BORDEAUX ET SES ENVIRONShttps://aquitainetravelguide.com/helping-local-farms-aider-nos-fermes-locales/fermes-pres-de-bordeaux-et-des-environs/

FERMES RIVE DROIT https://aquitainetravelguide.com/helping-local-farms-aider-nos-fermes-locales/fermes-rive-droit/

FERMES BASSIN D’ARCACHON https://aquitainetravelguide.com/helping-local-farms-aider-nos-fermes-locales/fermes-bassin-darcachon/

ENGLISH If we can’t be out giving tours, we can still help bring local products to our neighbors. Please keep supporting your local farms. They will still be growing and raising food. By buying online on their websites, you’ll support local business and keep the people who feed us in business! Most deliver to your home or a local pick up point. FRANÇAIS Si nous ne pouvons pas être dehors pour donner des visites, nous pouvons toujours contribuer à faire venir les produits locaux chez nos voisins. Continuez de soutenir vos fermes locales. Elle continuent à faire pousser et élever. En achetant en ligne sur leurs sites, vous soutiendrez le business local et aiderez ces gens qui nous nourrissent à maintenir à flot leur affaire. La plupart livrent à domicile ou dans un point de collecte local.

 

Here are some options for online delivery orders with multiple farms in France (individual farms are next, des fermes individuelles ont dans la prochaine liste) Voici quelques options pour les commandes de livraison en ligne avec plusieurs fermes en France (les fermes individuelles sont les suivantes dans la prochaine liste) : Note this is new to me as well, please share your personal experiences with each provider, if you’ve used them, in comments below. Thank you!

My Farmers – works with producers locally, register online to make your order of what is available for delivery in central Bordeaux / travailler avec des fermes locales, créé votre compte et choisir des produits dispo pour une livraison a Bordeaux https://www.myfarmers.fr/

Pourdebon– some producers are not selling during this time period, be sure to click in description to verify their Facebook page seems to have what is available posted / certains producteurs ne vendent pas pendant cette période, assurez-vous de cliquer en description pour vérifier. Leur page Facebook semble avoir ce qui est disponible posté / https://www.pourdebon.com/

Drive Fermier 33 Gironde / Boxed local, farm fresh products delivered to a centralized location / Produits frais locaux en boîte livrés à un endroit centralisé / https://www.drive-fermier.fr/33/

Tauziet & Co – Plenty of farms from Aquitaine and SW France to delivery to your home / Beaucoup des fermes en Aquitaine et Sud-ouest France pour livraison chez vous https://www.facebook.com/lafermedetauziet/

La Ruche Qui Dit Oui – Open multiple locations in Bordeaux, in Cerons and Gujan-Mestras (amongst other locals) for pickup of local products / toute de France, aussi bien pour les producteurs, toute types des produits frais, récupérer dans les endroits spécifiques / https://laruchequiditoui.fr/fr

Cagette.netNouvelle Aquitaine / Offers multiple options for delivery (usually to a fixed location) from different local farms and producers / Offre plusieurs options de livraison (généralement à un endroit fixe) de différentes fermes et producteurs locaux / www.cagette.net

La Compagnie FermiereMerignac and Gradignan / store with local producers that does pick up and just starting delivery in Bordeaux and surrounding areas / magasin avec les producteurs locaux qui ne ramasser et tout juste de commencer la livraison à Bordeaux et les environs / Merignac@lacompagniefermiere.fr et gradignan@lacompagniefermiere.fr / https://www.lacompagniefermiere.fr/

Individual Farms ENGLISH I’m working hard on collecting local farms still delivering, as long as they’re allowed to. Please feel free to send me more to add. There are a lot of farms open for pick up, I’m just not sure how much longer we will be allowed to drive very far. I’ve worked with many of these people, they make some amazing products in BORDEAUX/GIRONDE/AQUITAINE generally x FYI Some farms needs masks, if you have some at home or know how to make any…please give them to your local farmer! FRANÇAIS J’ai travaillé dur pour rassembler des informations sur des fermes locales qui assuraient encore des livraisons, tant qu’ils en ont encore le droit. Il y a plein de fermes ouvertes pour une collecte sur place, même si je ne sais pas combien de temps encore nous pourrons nous déplacer loin. J’ai travaillé avec plusieurs de ces producteurs sur BORDEAUX/GIRONDE/AQUITAINE. Certaines fermes ont besoin de masques, si vous en avez à la maison ou savez comment en faire, n’hésitez pas à leur en faire parvenir.

 

Vegetables / legumes

Ferme de CantisCouthure (10 minutes de Marmande) / call to order your vegetable basket to be picked up at farm / appelez pour commander votre basket de legumes à être ramassé à la ferme / Bastien +33 (0)6 16 31 86 40

Pauline Air FarmLormont / online order and pick up for seasonal aquaponic vegetables and herbes / Commandez en ligne pour recuperer sur place des legumes de saison aquaponique et des herbes / laura.gaury@gmail.com / https://www.paulineairfarm.com/shop

Le Petit Marche de CélineBazas / vegetables, legumes / pick-up only, récupérer sur place / 2 le Mirail, 3340 Bazas / +33 (0)6 01 26 26 30 / https://m.facebook.com/Le-petit-march%C3%A9-de-C%C3%A9line-346153602723635/

Le Domaine d’EcolineSadirac / vegetables and fruits, legumes et fruits / pick-up or delivery w/in 20kim of Sadirac, récupérer ou livraison entre 20km de Sadirac / order online for delivery in 48hrs, faire la commande en ligne pour livraison dans 48hrs / +33 (0)6 10 13 26 81 / Lieu dit Joyeuse, 33670 Sadirac / contact@domaine-ecoline.fr / https://www.domaine-ecoline.fr/

La Jardin en ÉquilibreReignac / fresh vegetables, legumes frais / +33 (0)6 83 16 26 36 / 1 Gourdin, 33860 Reignac / https://www.lejardinenequilibre.com/me-contacter/

Asparagus, AspergeNoaillan / pick-up at farm, récupérer à la ferme / asparagus,asperge 5€ kilo, tips et des points a 6€ kilo / Chez FAUQUE Nathalie, 1 Suscarrot, Noaillan / +33 (0)5 56 25 39 05

Thierry Premieur Langorian (closed) et Podensac et Langon (ouvert) / vegetable stand doing pickup and delivery orders via ONE SMS (put name, address, contact info) / stand de légumes faisant des commandes de ramassage et de livraison via UN SMS (mettre le nom, l’adresse, les coordonnées) / +33 (0)6 08 01 47 92 (Thierry) / https://www.facebook.com/thierry.primeur

Chicken / Poulet

Ferme d’IllatsCerons / chicken, poulet / delivery available, livraison disponible / +33 (0)6 01 63 79 68 / contact@lafermedillats.com / https://www.lafermedillats.com

La Ferme du GatLe Nizan / poultry, pintade and veal, order and pickup only – poulet, pintade et veau, commande avant et récupérer sur place / +33 (0)6 74 85 43 06 / lafermedugat@free.fr / 1 Gat 33430, Le Nizan / http://lafermedugat.free.fr/Site_La_Ferme_du_Gat/Accueil.html

Papa PouleFerme a Poussignac pour livraisons a Bazas, Casteljaloux, Villandraut, Langon / chicken, poulet / delivery available / livraison disponible / +33 (0)6 37 23 90 64 / https://m.facebook.com/chezpapapoule/

Muriel ARNULLLangon, Bazas, Cudos, Captieux, Villandrault / delivery of chickens, pintade, and butchered duck as well as eggs and duck hearts / livraison des livraison pour la volaille, poulet 7.80 le kilo, pintade 9.30 le kilo, canette 9.60 le kilo et magret découpe plus des œuf pleine aire et les coeurs de canard  / arnull.muriel@gmail.com

Pork / porc

Ferme ClavaillonBirac / fresh pork, porc frais / delivery available to local area, livraison disponible dans le region / +33 (0)6 56 25 88 18 / salut@clavaillon.fr / http://www.clavaillon.fr/ and https://www.facebook.com/Clavaillon/

Ferme Sbrissa Lou BazadaisBazas / fresh pork, porc frais / for pick-up, récupérer sur place / Bourdet RN524, 33430 Bazas / loubazades@outlook.com / +33 (0)7 50 88 74 83 / https://loubazades.wixsite.com/website

Little Black PigMontesquiou / charcuterie products for pick or local delivery /  des produits charcuterie, récupérer sur place ou livraisons local / +33 (0)5 62 07 15 19 / Enjouanisson, 32320 Montesquiou / louisa@littleblackpig.eu / http://littleblackpig.eu /

Duck / canard

PalmagriMagasins a Langon, Auros, Bordeaux et Bazas / pick-up and local delivery at local duck coopérative making foie gras and any other sort of duck product from magret to rillettes, des produits canard et foie gras / récupérer sur place et livraisons locales dans coopérative de canard local faisant du foie gras et tout autre type de produit de canard du magret aux rillettes, des produits canard et foie gras / http://www.palmagri-foiegras.fr

La Ferme de QueyranBernos-Beaulac / duck and foie gras products, canard et des produits foie gras / pick-up for orders under 50€ and more than 10km, récupérer sur place ou livraison pour les commandes plus de 50€ et mois de 10km / Fabien +33 (0)6 03 19 17 86 / https://www.facebook.com/fermequeyran/

La Ferme du MoulinatLoubens / canned duck goods, sunflower oil and canola, bio lentils, dried corn, grains for animal feed and they are part of the association Les Paysans d’Aqui, we are a group of organic or very reasoned producers who offer sales via cagette.net on Thursday evening at the new plant (former prison of La Réole), the second Wednesday of the month at my farm and we have just set up specially for sales containment on Saturday mornings from 9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. at the farm / FRANCAIS conserves de canard gras (et produits frais sur commande) huiles de tournesol et de colza Bio, lentille bio, maïs popcorn bio, céréales pour animaux bio et ils faites partie de l’asso Les Paysans d’Aqui, nous sommes un regroupement de producteurs bio ou très raisonnés qui proposons des ventes via cagette.net le jeudi soir à la nouvelle centrale (ancienne prison de La Réole), le second mercredi du mois à ma ferme et nous venons de mettre en place spécialement pour le confinement des ventes le samedi matin de 9h à 12h30 à la ferme / lafermedumoulinat@gmail.com / www.lafermedumoulinat.com

Ferme du Petit CassseFerme a Cazats avec livraison a Bazas, Langon / pick-up or delivery for duck products, produits de canard / récupérer sur place, livraison pour des produits canard frais et conserves / charlie.bertin@hotmail.fr / Lieu-dit Le Petit Casse, 33430 Cazats / https://www.facebook.com/FERME-DU-PETIT-CASSE-142354979712480/

GAEC BordesCudos / duck in all raw forms, delivery available for large orders (next sale April 16) / canard cru, livraison disponible pour des commandes grandes (prochaine vente le 16eme avril) / La Segue, 33430 Cudos / https://www.facebook.com/GAEC-Bordes-315337169306992/

Beef / Boeuf

La Ferme GauvryRimons / Bazadais beef, ducks and canned goods for pick-up, bœuf bazadais, canards et conservés pour récupérer sur place / Lieu dit Gauvry, 33580 Rions / +33 (0)5 56 71 83 96 ou +33 (0)6 07 75 19 43 / lafermegauvry@wanadoo.fr / https://www.lafermegauvry.com/

La Grise de BazasBazas / Bazadais beef, race bazadais veal veau Le semaine de 23 mars ready for pick-up the week of 23rd March with sausage and pate ten days after / veau le semaine de 23 mars prêt pour récupérer sous place le semaine de 23eme mars et des saucissons et pâte dix jours après / +33 (0)6 12 27 84 16 / contact@lagrisedebazas.fr / https://www.lagrisedebazas.fr

Cheese and Milk / Fromage et lait

La Ferme de Pre Chic – Prechac / fresh goat cheese (and soaps), pick-up and delivery locally on orders over 15 EURO / fromage de chèvre frais (et de savon) récupérer sur place et livraison a domicile locale pour 15 EURO commande / 4 Lieu-dit Bergey et Bardine, 33730 Prechac / envoyer message sur Facebook https://www.facebook.com/lafermeduprechic/

La Ferme des JarouillesCoutras / pick-up at 17h Monday-Friday goat and cow, milk, yogurt and cheese as well as grains and eggs, / récupère a 17h le lundi à vendredi du chèvre et vache lait, yaourt et fromage et des graines et les œufs / +33 (0)5 57 49 28 20 / 36 Les Landes, 33230 Coutras / http://www.jarouilles.fr/

Bergerie du MoleNoaillan/ Goat cheese to order ahead to pick up / fromage de chèvre pour faire une commande et récupérer sur place / jeanmariedelavigne@yahoo.fr / http://www.bergeriedumole.fr

Chez Oyana TableMios / goat cheese and milk, butter for pickup / fromage chevre du lait et du beurre pour récupérer sur place / +33 (0)7 78 47 01 23 / https://www.facebook.com/ChezOyana/

Bakery / Boulangerie

Dénis MorlansSendets / organic bakery delivering locally, pick-up at bakery. Hugo Délices a Bazas or at Bazas farm Johan Musseau on Saturday – boulangerie organic pour livraison locale, Hugo Délices a Bazas, récupérer sur place ou à la marche à Ferme Johan Musseau a Bazas les Samedis / 4 A Rippes, 33690 Sendets / https://m.facebook.com/LesConfituresDenisMorlans

For general inquiry check these locations :

Bienvenue à la Ferme – Great source for local farms and even places to visit after the virus quarantine is over. They are working with farmers to make sure all necessary hygiene and safety measures needed to deliver local foods / Grande source pour les fermes locales et même les endroits à visiter après la quarantaine du virus est terminée. Ils travaillent avec les agriculteurs pour s’assurer que toutes les mesures d’hygiène et de sécurité nécessaires à la livraison des aliments locaux https://www.bienvenue-a-la-ferme.com/nouvelle-aquitaine/produits-fermiers-produits-de-la-ferme

Lodene headed by Nicolas FAUGERE will be updating his list with map as well to help you find local producers – with a great interactive map! / Dirigé par Nicolas FAUGERE mettra à jour sa liste avec carte ainsi pour vous aider à trouver des producteurs locaux – avec une grande carte interactive!http://www.lodene.com/annuaire-covid.php

https://www.acheteralasource.com/producteurs-en-france/all/region/72/page/6

https://granvillage.com/l/10-nouvelle-aquitaine/?category=53

La Zinette – SUD GIRONDE / list of local farms, liste des ferme locaux / http://lazinette.com/annuaire-alternatif-du-sud-gironde/producteurs-locaux-en-sud-gironde/?fbclid=IwAR0ChSuAv0IiMZA5iucahezw7zIwT3o4NzEXHeNX7GEh-Su3MWG_w6CYcco

Farms in the Medoc / Fermes en Medochttps://www.pays-medoc.com/media/2942/Carnet_adresses_producteurs_25-10-2017.pdf

 

Bazas

This town is easy to drive past, and off the typical tourist map, as there are no trains or public transportation to take you here from Bordeaux. Which is probably how everyone locally would like it to stay…a historical gem in the countryside. It’s location, just on the outskirts of Graves and before heading into the stark Landes was why it was once considered the last bit of civilization.

Walking into town is most idealic on Rue Fondespan, with it’s cobbled street and small businesses. This opens into the large Place de la Cathedrale, with Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Bazas (a UNESCO site) which was sadly vandalized during the Protestant reformation. The structure itself is still breathtaking and the small Jardin du Chapitre to the right is a lovely place to stroll and look over the valley below.

The town square is surrounded by arcaded buildings, some dating back to the 14th century. Take a walk down any of the side streets to see wooden timbered facades, ornate stonework and secret courtyards. To see Bazas on a Saturday morning, filled with stalls of vegetable, meats and local product vendors is like stepping back into time. It has to be one of the most beautiful markets in the area.

The Bazas Tourist Office is incredibly helpful and offers weekly tours on the history of Bazas or the ancient city hospital Apothecary. These tours need to be booked in advance and are only offered in French at this time. Please fill out the form below for someone to translate the tours for free.

 

For a town of under 5,000 people, there are a large number of really wonderful places to eat and you’ll likely never have a bad meal. All will over the famous boeuf Bazadais, a large breed of cattle which are raised upwards of seven years, living on grass in large pastures before slaughter. There is the yearly Fete des Boeufs Gras which can draw 10,000 visitors into town to watch these cattle parade down the streets, with flower decorations and local dancers in historic costume.

Bazas also holds a wonderful animation for the Fete de Saint Jean in June and the Fete de la Palombe in the autumn for hunting season. The energy of the town and the pride the Bazadais have for their history is clearly evident.

 

GUIDE

SEE

Cathedral Saint Jean – There is a mass in French on Sundays at 1030am, but you are welcome to visit and walk around anytime as the church remains open. There are occasional concerts inside as well as the Secrets of Bazas Tour which is at 1030am on Tuesdays starting April 16th for 5 Euro. Check the Bazas Tourism Office for events www.tourisme-sud-gironde.com

Apothecary of Hospital de Bazas – Attached to the old hospital, built in the 18th century and in use until only 50 years ago, the Apothecary is one of the best preserved in France. While not open to the public on a general basis, there are tours offered through the Bazas Tourism Office at 1 Place de la Cathedral. Contact to inquire on dates and times. Phone +33 (0)5 56 25 25 84 / www.tourisme-sud-gironde.com

Antiques Shops – there are many all over town, but Saturday is the best day to stop by as they will all be open. The owners are fun to talk with and discuss items histories, and while prices are usually good compared to big cities, if something seems too much, you can try to negotiate pricing. Hours vary.

 

STAY

Airbnb offers great options in town starting around 40 Euro a night, including our home…so why not stay with us?

Domaine de Fompeyre – 10 minutes by foot from town square, up on a hill overlooking the town, is this classical hotel with a restaurant and pool. Parking on site. Prices are very reasonable, starting around 65 Euro a night. 1 Fompeyre – Phone +33 (0)5 56 25 98 00 / reservation@domaine-de-fompeyre.com / http://domaine-de-fompeyre.com/

 

RESTAURANTS

Most are only open for lunch during the week and offer great menus starting at 14 Euros, but all will over a nice cut of Bazadais beef! Best to book in advance for weekends or evenings.

Caro&Co – South African female chef and co-owner with her French husband, this couple have a fabulous restaurant using local and seasonal products from nearby farms and shops. Plates are beautiful and often have lots of colorful vegetables, not seen in many French restaurants! 38 Place de la Cathedral – Open daily for lunch, dinner on Friday and Saturday, closed Wednesday and Sunday – Phone +33 (0)5 56 65 24 58 / www.restaurantcaroandco.fr

Boeuf Pop! – Friendly meat-centric restaurant popular with locals. They have a great terrace onto the Cathedral Square for taking in the spring sunshine. Local Bazadias beef, sheep and pork with duck fat fries…also have an amazing burger with local cheese and caramelized onions! 30 Place de la Cathedral – Open for lunch Monday – Saturday and dinner Friday/Saturday – +33 (0)5 56 65 77 56 / https://www.facebook.com/Leboeufpop

Indigo – Chef owned restaurant serving unique dishes with local ingredients and a SE Asian twist. Great valued lunch menu at 14 Euro. Perfect for a date night. Also own Café Noosa on Cathedral Square, which has a light salad lunch menu and is a great place to grab a coffee or ‘gouter’ (sweek snack). 25 Rue Fondespan – Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday – Saturday – Phone +33 (0)5 56 25 25 52 / https://www.thefork.com/restaurant/indigo/44162

 

BUY

Lamigeon – Pate and canned goods store in Bazas which has been making local products for nearly 80 years. You can find all sorts – wild boar, deer, fois gras and classic pate de campagne. If you are traveling back into the USA, I have made it through with canned products from there with no problem. Unique, reasonably priced gifts to give to family and friends, or to bring as a thank you for staying with someone! Open Wednesday-Saturday, from 10am-1230pm and 3pm-7pm – Phone +33 (0)5 56 65 58 49 / alainlamigeon@orange.fr / http://www.lamigeon.fr/