I’m often thrown back into history class driving around my home in SW France. The homes of famous people like Montesquieu and Toulouse Lautrec are short trips from my house. We think about the Romans all of the time, living in a city once part of the Roman Empire. Eleanor of Aquitaine, Catherine di Medici, and Henry IV have stories from Gironde. Only 15 minutes away is the town of Prechac and Chateau Cazeneuve, which is one of the chateaux owned by Henry IV (born Henry Navarre), inherited from his mother Jeanne Albret.
South of Bordeaux in Pau, is the chateau Henri IV (1553-1610) was born in, to the Kingdom of Navarre (Henri III in Navarre). His mother was Protestant and father was Catholic, but he would be raised mainly in the religion of his mother, Jeanne d’Albret. The time he lived was during the four decades of the wars of religion, between Protestants and Catholics. His religion would cause him great personal troubles, but ultimately made him one of the most tolerant Kings to rule. In 1598 he would sign the Edict of Nantes which gave religious freedom to the French. This unfortunately wouldn’t last even one hundred years and France wouldn’t officially see freedom of religion until after the French Revolution.
The love of French citizens came not only for this religious tolerance, but for the improved daily life he imposed upon the masses. This is not surprising, considering he ruled through what we could consider realpolitik, focusing on practical solutions and universal national interests, rather than ideas and feelings. He advocated for meat on everyone’s plate at least once a week, lodging for construction workers, and the creation of great Royal textile mills in already established Paris Gobelins.
The start of the Bourbon dynasty began with Henry and would be the ruling family until the Revolution. During this period of time exploration all over SE Asia expanded and this is when France discovered Ile de la Reunion, off the coast of Madagascar. Acacia trees were brough back from SE Asia, tobacco from North America (which was then heavily planted in Gironde and surrounding departments).
Henry IV is considered one of the most beloved Kings in the history of France. His nickname ‘Good King Henry’ or ‘Henri le Grand’, which knowing the French and how the monarchy ended, is testament to his good character. That’s not to say that his final demise, stabbed to death in his carriage while traveling in Paris, was any less traumatic. So what to know when you are in the area and wanting to discover a bit of this Royal history? Where to visit?
Cazeneuve would be the first stop, keeping in mind the chateau you see today is very different from the one in the 16th century that Henry would have enjoyed. After leaving the chateau-fort to his cousin, Raymond, it was renovated to become the chateau we see today – with larger windows, fireplaces and more elegant rooms.
Chateau in Pau, where Henry III of Navarre was born offers guided tours only so be sure to check times of departure / Page d’accueil | Château de Pau / Rue du Château, 64000 PAU / +33 5 59 82 38 00
Chateau Cazeneuve was the hunting grounds for Henry when he was in the area of SE Gironde. Visits are in the afternoon in season, guided only, with special events around Easter and Halloween (for example). The grounds are equally lovely to walk around and enjoy on sunny days, with spaces to picnic and a grotto along the river Cirons / Accueil château Royal de Cazeneuve en Gironde (Aquitaine) / Royal Chateau Cazeneuve, 33430 Prechac / +33 5 56 25 48 16 / chateaudecazeneuve@orange.fr
Nerac is a charming little town on a River in Lot et Garonne, with a castle atributed to Henry IV. It is closed out of season, which tends to be May-October. The town is also lovely for a stroll, with a great market to visit once a week. Nerac is famous as well for its small melons, or cantelope. Bienvenue au Château de Nérac – Château-musée Henri IV / Rue Henri IV, 47600 Nérac / +33 5 53 65 21 11
While not directly linked to Henry IV, the Chateau Ducal in Cadillac and it’s prior owner, the first Duke d’Epernon, Jean-Louis de Nogaret de La Valette. It is thought this politically motivated man, who happened to be in the carriage with Henry at the time of his murder, could have been the killer Ravaillac. Regardless, this impressive piece of architecture has a rather sordid history through out French history…and not only in relations to Henry IV / Bienvenue au château ducal de Cadillac / Open thoughout the year, Cadillac also has a lovely market on Thursday mornings and nice restaurants / 4, place de la Libération, 33410 Cadillac-sur-Garonne
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