There may be no product more divisive than foie gras in France. I want to talk about foie gras production in France and where to find it. Love it, or hate it, there is a lot of false and sensationalized information out there. Being a culinary guide in France and Spain over more than a decade, I’ve had a lot of discussions about foie gras. I’ve eaten a lot of foie gras. I’ve seen many farms. I love duck in general. I’d like to present the facts about this local product and offer you to take a tour with me in the countryside if you are interested in knowing more and seeing the production in person1.
WHAT IS FOIE GRAS?
Foie gras is literally the fattened liver of a duck or goose, which can happen naturally in wild birds or forced in farmed animals. When birds migrate, they will stop to feed abundantly to save energy for the long trip. This event was thought to have been first noticed by the Egyptians, and certainly the first documentation are paintings, reliefs, and hieroglyphics from Egypt. It is thought they were the first people to create a farmed foie gras, so this is a process that has been happening for possibly over four thousands of years.
HISTORY OF FOIE GRAS
This domestication of geese was passed down to the Romans 2,000 years ago, probably from the Greeks2, and subsequently went throughout the Roman Empire. In Rome, figs were likely what was used to encourage excessive growth of the liver, this was called ‘ficatum‘, through gavage (forced feeding). As the Romans were in SW France from 50 BC to 400 AD, we can imagine this is when the production started here in Gironde. Certainly they were using Geese until more recent years when the more docile duck was chosen.
PRODUCTION OF FOIE GRAS LOCALLY IN GIRONDE
Today, most farms use ducks which have better temperaments than geese. This is especially true in Gironde and the Landes (department South of Gironde). The male ducks are used to produce foie gras (canard) as the female ducks (canette) have more internal organs that take up valuable space. You’ll often see roasted canette on menus, otherwise everything you are eating will likely be the male duck – from the foie gras to confit, sausage to magret, the canard is used from tail to beak.
The breed of duck most used is a hybrid, born sterile. This could be a Peking duck and barbary make a mulard (not to be confused with the wild duck, mallard). Gavage is generally done the last two weeks of their lives, in the form of corn which can be cooked or dry. Some farmers use metal devices, other more flexible plastic. It does vary greatly from farm to farm, and certainly is an entirely different production when one talks of industrial foie gras.
There is a wonderful foie gras cooperative in Auros (about 10 minutes from Bazas) called Palmagri, where smaller farmers can send their birds to be transformed into anything from pate to confit. Christine SAPHORE is the head of the operation and has wonderful products. Closed Sunday. Accueil – PALMAGRI Foie Gras (palmagri-foiegras.com) / 8 r Partarrieu, 33124 Auros / +33556654081
France produces 70% of European foie gras, with the majority of it in SW France, between the Landes (25%), Pyrenees Atlantiques (15%) and the Gers is the third largest producer in the SW. The majority of foie gras produced in France, is consumed here as well3.
COOKING AND EATING FOIE GRAS
My favorite thing to do is visit my local farm and get a whole duck to breakdown at home. A duck with foie runs around 45 EURO whole, which is quite a steal if you’re up to doing the work yourself. Tania Tcheke wrote the best cookbook for your SW France cooking collection, THE BORDEAUX KITCHEN, where you can also learn how to make foie gras in many styles. I personally love a fresh lobe, seared on a pan and served with a soup. My old favorite in Paris, Beurre Noisette, once had a potimarron soup, with foie gras, cubed breadcrumbs and herbes that to this day is still a perfect fall dish. Most restaurants locally will serve mi-cuit or foie gras cooked and served sliced, cold.
ETHICAL FOIE GRAS
A Spanish farmer in Extremadura, Spain (area famous for jamon Iberico / pata negra / bellota ham) noticed animals gorging before flight happening on his land in particular. The geese would graze for days, eating excessively and naturally fattening. He put their harvested livers into a foie gras competition in France in 2006 and beat all the farmed foie gras, much to the French chagrin. In order to make his paler, less ‘fat’ looking livers sell better, he planted marigolds to increase the yellow colouring of the liver. Edourado Sousa is still producing high end, naturally occurring foie gras.4
If you would like to try the umami flavour and texture of foie gras, without the bird, you can! There is a product called faux gras which is sold in many higher end epiceries and natural food stores. One vegan brand in particular I have enjoyed is Belgian, GAIA. It’s the closest to the real thing I have had so far. Faux Gras® de GAIA
WHERE TO TRY FOIE GRAS IN BORDEAUX?
You will find ‘mi-cuit’ foie gras in almost any restaurant, typically as a starter. Brasserie Bordelaise, Chez Dupont, Le Comptoir d’Etienne, Les Noailles, Chapon Fin…so many options! Classical French Restaurants in Bordeaux – Aquitaine Travel Guide
My favorite style of foie gras is ‘poêlé‘ or seared. La Tupina once served it with roasted grapes, it was delicious. The light crunch of the exterior and softness of the interior, sweet and warm, was perfection!
If you are looking to purchase foie gras, you’ll find it in any grocery store and often at markets. For the best, try these fine shops :
Lafitte Foie Gras near the Galerie des Hommes. Closed Sunday and Monday / 26 Rue Mably, 33000 Artigues-pres-Bordeaux / +33 (0)5 56 48 01 05 / Foie Gras Lafitte – Boutique à Bordeaux
Dubernet also near the Galerie des Hommes. Closed Sunday / 9 r Michel Montaigne, 33000 Bordeaux / +33 (0)5 56 48 06 05 / Maison Dubernet (maison-dubernet.com)
Campet is located near the Marche des Capucins and is a really impressive butcher to visit overall. Also an excellent location if you are looking for a whole lamb or other meat. Closed Sunday and Monday / 23 pl Capucins, 33800 Bordeaux / +33 (0)5 56 92 66 69 / Campet Bordeaux – Spécialiste en Agneau, Foie Gras, Confit, Magret, Saumon fumé au marché des Capucins (05 56 92 66 69) (campet-foie-gras-bordeaux.fr)
READ MORE :
We’ve Been Debating Foie Gras Since Ancient Times – Gastro Obscura (atlasobscura.com)
Foie gras in France – statistics & facts | Statista
Tout savoir sur la filière du foie gras dans le Sud-Ouest (francetvinfo.fr)
- Book a Bazas tour Book Your Food Tour – Aquitaine Travel Guide ↩︎
- Les origines du Foie Gras : une production ancestrale (lefoiegras.fr) ↩︎
- Tout savoir sur la filière du foie gras dans le Sud-Ouest (francetvinfo.fr) ↩︎
- Cruelty-free Foie Gras From a Spanish Family’s Farm | NUVO (nuvomagazine.com)
Espagne : une exploitation « éthique » produit du foie gras sans gavage des oies (lemonde.fr) ↩︎