A friend and fellow food and wine lover send me an article about Bistrot CulSec opening in Bordeaux. The first thing that jumped out was that the chef and sommelier had worked at Akrame in Paris. Which meant, as I had spent probably my most formative time in the kitchen at Akrame, we had to go try it out! Having spent the better part of three days eating around Bordeaux, it was a cumulation of everything I’d been looking for.
The menu is small, with a few a-la-carte options for starters, mains, and dessert. The season was well represented, the techniques and seasoning were precise and balanced. There were no foams or hint of molecular, as I was anticipating what the chef would bring as someone who had worked in Akrames kitchen. Rather, Chef Gaëtan of CulSec credits Chef Akrame with the ability to cook through instinct and developing a ‘taste for the unexpected’. Which is true, having watched Akrame create a menu was as much about feeling as it was recipes. Chef Gaëtan elevated a mushroom and crispy sweatbreads into some of the best I’ve ever had.
CulSec is working with SO BON for fruits and vegetables (and other middlemen) to ensure high quality, local ingredients. This eliminates the challenges that come from working directly with producers while still working with some of the best products.
Sarah’s varied and discerning wine list is a voyage through France, with varied producers by glass or bottle. My friend who is a dipWSET was overjoyed to find such a list in Bordeaux. Living in SW France which they love and working in Bordeaux wine country was a choice for the team. It’s smaller and more intimate than Paris and the ‘backbone’ of many great wines.
The space is equal parts character and charm, small enough to give you the feeling of cozy without being on top of another table. Surly the terrace must be filled in the summer months, as the interior space was filled by the time we left.
It was a special evening with a friend and I’m now looking forward to going back for a fun evening with my husband too! Gaëtan and Sarah offer excellent hospitality, warmth, and expertise to Bordeaux. Thank you for a great dining experience, Gaëtan and Sarah. And for your time!
My readers, I hope you make it to a dinner there soon! Please let me know when you do!
CulSec – ‘Etymology – From cul sec, from the modern French cul, ‘bottom of the glass’, and sec, ’emptied of its alcohol‘’.
Near to Porte Calihau, 8 Place de Palais, 33000 Bordeaux / Dinner only. Book in advance / Bistrot CulSec | Restaurant à Bordeaux en Gironde (33) / +33688003792
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