Hard to believe, but over many centuries, what we know as Sauternes transitioned between producing dry whites and dry reds. The Dutch, who were huge buyers of Bordeaux wines in the 1600’s and 1700’s, used to add sugar to their wine. When the Bordelaise discovered how to make sweet wines without adding sugar, they knew who their first market would be. Today Sauternes is famous for it’s sweet whites – ‘vin moelleux’ and ‘vin liquoreux’, those wines with a sugar content of between 10-42 grams of sugar per litre and over 45 grams, respectively. A classic AOC Sauternes will have at least 100 grams of sugar per litre, higher end nearer to 200 grams per litre.
2026 is the 90th year of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) Sauternes! In 1936 the AOC Sauternes was officially created and included not only wine grown in Sauternes, but Preignac, Bommes, Barsac and Fargues.
Even if you aren’t traditionally a fan of sweet wines, the wine making process is fascinating and quite unique. These are the only whites to be found in the 1855 classification, so you’ve heard some of these famous chateau if you’re a wine lover. When coming to explore this part of the Bordeaux wine making world, you’ll want to know about the famous Lur Saluces family and their even more famous chateaux. Many are open to visits (with reservations) and are some of the best wines and most stunning locations in the area.
CHATEAU d’YQUEM – 1855 Superior First Growth
The most famous chateau in the Sauternes AOC – known for its unique location on the highest elevation in Sauternes, historical family significance, and ultimately its place at the top of the 1855 classification – would of course be Chateau d’Yquem. Under English ownership during the 1400’s, eventually owned by the largest family of winemakers in Sauternes. The Lur Saluces, arrived in the late 1400’s when they first came into the area from other parts of France. By 1855 this family owned 700 hectares of land in the Sauternes region (AOC Sauternes is between 1,600-1,900 hectares total). Yquem has been owned by LVMH (Bernard Arnault) group since 1996, retaining one of the family members to help continue the prestigious wine making and ensure the quality didn’t change under the new ownership. The Lur Saluces family allowed LVMH to keep the families crown from their coat of arms on the Yquem bottle label. The original origins of the family name can be traced back to Italy, where that coat of arms had an eight point crown.
CHATEAU de FARGUES
In 2023 I was lucky enough to spend the day with Charlotte Lur Saluces and to discover another incredible family chateau, Chateau de Fargues. This property is private and not open to wine tourism as we classically think. They have done major renovations of the Clementine chateau, creating a dining space and event reception area. The idea is to welcome clients with unique culinary experiences, dishes to enjoy with their signature Sauternes wine. The family is also the owner of a large white asparagus farm in the Landes department (south of Gironde), so late winter and early spring is the ideal time to enjoy both of these local delicacies.
Many chateaux in Sauternes have chosen to expand their production of wine to include dry whites and more moelleux rather than liquoreux whites. Some even have made dry whites in recent years, to satisfy current trends. This is not the case of Chateau de Fargues. Here, the Lur Saluces have chosen to focus on one classical style of Sauternes and make it perfectly. It truly is tasting what you hope to find in a Sauternes. The family has also released a book full of stunning images to tell their families story ‘Château de Fargues, une folle ambition à Sauternes: La folle ambition des Lur Saluces à Sauternes‘. If you would like to book a culinary and wine experience at the chateau, do keep in mind they are not open to the public and be sure to call and book in advance.
Château de Fargues | Site du château de Fargues / 8 Route des Écoles, 33210 Fargues / 05 57 98 04 20
CHATEAU FILHOT – 1855 Second Growth
The first chateau I ever visited in Sauternes and one of first vines you’ll pass driving into the village of Sauternes itself, beautiful Chateau Filhot. When I first came you simply drove up and took a tour and tasting in the old stone cellar. I doubt it is that simple today but still worth passing to see! The architecture is from the 18th century and stunning, built around the time the family joined the Lur Saluces through marriage. The wines are classic Sauternes and you’ll find them on many menus locally. The chateau is also one of the many chateau that hosted musical concerts for the Baroque Music Festival each year in December in their elegant period salons.
Chateau Filhot – Sauternes – Second growth classified in 1855 / Route de Filhot, 33210 Sauternes / 05 56 76 61 09
CHATEAU de COUTET – 1855 First Growth
Thomas Jefferson shared during his time in Bordeaux that Chateau Coutet was the best wine in Sauternes. In the mid-1800’s it was considered only second to Yquem. The last Lur Saluce relative that lived in the chateau sold the property in 1926. Since American Aline Baly took the helm in the last decade from her uncle, it’s been an exciting time for this famous chateau. She can be seen at wine shows all over the world, sharing her love of her families incredible wine. This is another gorgeous property with some great old vintages in the families cave to dream of trying. A quintessential Sauternes.
Château Coutet / Château Coutet, 33720 Barsac / 05 56 27 15 46
CHATEAU de MALLE – 1855 Second Growth
I haven’t visited in about seven years, but will update soon! This is a great one for history lovers and offers many styles of tours.
Château de Malle : monument historique, grands crus classés / Château Saint-Amand, 33210 Preignac / 05 56 63 59 33
CROWNS IN SAUTERNES
If you see a crown on a bottle of wine in Sauternes, does it mean it’s a wine from the Lur-Saluces family? Even if you don’t, it doesn’t mean it’s not!
One of my personal favorite Sauternes wines with the crown on it’s label is Chateau Clos le Comte. One of his Sauternes is 100% Sauvignon Gris, where as most Sauternes are a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon blanc, maybe some Mouscadelle. Sauvignon Gris is very rare. Sauternes vineyards account for only 2% of all vines in Bordeaux, so if the majority are Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, you can imagine how small the crop is. So small, some chateau guides don’t even realize it’s used. The grapes bring a unique pineapple and passion fruit profile, differing them from the typical honey, marmalade and dried fruit profiles found in classical Sauternes. You can purchase this wine from the Maison Sauternaise, a wine shop owned by caviste Crystelle in Sauternes.
READ MORE :
La dynastie familiale des Lur Saluces, une histoire de l’Aquitaine
Interested in a tour of Sauternes to learn more? Contact me, Anne aquitaineguide@gmail.com
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