Going to San Sebastian, Spain to enjoy Basque dishes and the best produce is on many food lovers lists! Finding the best pintxo bars can be a challenge because there are so many! I used to enjoy going to San Sebastian with my father and his culinary groups to eat great food and drink great wine. Dinners with chefs and culinary students is pretty much my favorite thing to do in this world. Having said that, this is also a place that is so full of places to eat that it helps to have a local professional to share the best places! Excellent restaurants have been relatively easy to source…there are a myriad of incredible Michelin and locals restaurants, bars and unique spaces to enjoy Basque gastronomy in San Sebastian!
I was used to going through the many bars, grabbing plates of cured meats from Spain, croquettas, spicy peppers (guindillia peppers) olives and anchovies (Gilda pintxo), Basque cider (not sweet!) and txakoli (dry white Basque wine, generally poured from a height). Pintxo actually is the name for ‘spiking’ food onto the wooden stick you see holding the food together. Sometimes it’s ham and egg on a slice of bread, or maybe baby eels if you’re really lucky (angulas) although they have been overfished in recent years and it’s not generally imitation surimi. The seafood, sauteed simply in olive oil with garlic. All fun…but I knew there are more inventive dishes and I wanted to find them this time!
So this last time when we went, over the fall school holidays in France, I wanted to book a food tour to help navigate the nearly 250 pintxo bars. I searched for chef lead food tours, hoping to find someone with a similar background. I found one of the most charismatic and enjoyable guides, knowledgeable and who completely changed my impression of the pintxo, Greg of Basque Bites.
WHICH FOOD TOUR TO TAKE IN SAN SEBASTIAN?
If you are looking for a food tour, culinary travel planning or guiding, this is your man. We roamed the shaded streets of the old town in search of what I wanted, elevated pintxos. I’ve eaten years of wonderful classics so wanted to try something ‘extra’, and Greg delivered! This style of food tour is so much fun and so unique to Spain with its pintxo (and tapas) small plates. As a culinary guide this is so important, to let the guide know what your interests and focus is…so it can be personalized as much as possible!
Where did we go? I’ll share photos of my favorite places but Greg has a whole list he sends when you book with him, so you’ll just have to take a tour to get that!
Top two favorites of mine, most are going to be concentrated in the Old Town by the port) were:
Borda Berri where I had the pig ear which was crisp and gelatinous and spiced just right! Closed lunch Tuesday, Sunday and Monday. No reservations / Borda Berri – San Sebastián Pintxo Bars / Fermín Calbetón, 12 – Parte Vieja (Old Town)
Casa Urola where I had the scallop and foie gras pintxos (while girls played video gams unber the bar!). They serve pintxo downstairs and have a seated restaurant as well, which can be booked. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday / Casa Urola Jatetxea – Restaurante Casa Urola Jatetxea / Fermin Calbeton 20, 20003, Donostia – San Sebastian (Old Town) / +34 943 44 13 71
Basque Bites food tours with Greg! / Food Tours in San Sebastián and Basque Country | Basque Bites / info@basquebites.com / +34678242857
WHAT TO DO IN SAN SEBASTIAN?
The aquarium is always a hit with children and there is equal parts aquarium as there is history of the area and specifically fishing. Open 10am-8pm daily / Aquarium de San Sebastián Donostia / Plaza De Carlos Blasco Imaz 1, 20003, Donostia – San Sebastian / +34 943 44 00 99
The amusement park at the top of Monte Igueldo, you can drive up to or take the cable car, was built in 1912. The view from the top alone is worth the trip up. I’m generally terrified of amusement parks and for whatever reason, I was able to ignore the crumbling cement and aged feel and have fun! The rides are relatively short and honestly not too terrifying! The Park | Parque de Atracciones Monte Igueldo / Edificio Arco, Plaza Irún, 6, 20011, San Sebastian – Donostia /
WHERE TO STAY IN SAN SEBASTIAN?
If you love cooking at home, there are a lot of great apartments to rent in the city center. You’ll want to be close enough to walk around and not mess with cars or transportation. Near the port, but not in the small streets (for noise issues) is ideal.
There are a few markets in San Sebastian, with lots of seasonal and local produce. Try the percebes or gooseneck barnacles if they’re in season, the bigger the better (smaller ones tend to come from Morocco).
The most beautiful and historic hotel on the river in San Sebastian is Hotel Maria Christina. We decided after the big night trick or treating, to grab a before bed drink in the bar. It’s beautiful and great for people (or ghoul) watching! / Hotel Maria Cristina, a Luxury Collection Hotel, San Sebastian – With Gym / República Argentina K., 4, 20004, San Sebastian (Basque Country)
Another option is Hotel Villa Katalina with clean rooms and a restaurant downstairs, next to parking. We booked last minute and had a great deal, room was big enough and breakfast was good too! / Hotel Intelier Villa Katalina – San Sebastián
HALLOWEEN IN SAN SEBASTIAN!
Who knew Halloween and trick or treating (truco o trato locally) could be so much fun in San Sebastian? We had the best time, it was completely unexpected but a life saver. I checked the local neighborhood Facebook groups and found one where shops were handing out candy. In Europe, we get dressed up to scare people, so my girls were ‘fancy dead girls’ and my husband was a hockey player with a puck sticking out of his forehead. Shop workers from butchers to convenience store employees were dressed up, streets had spooky decorations, and an ofrenda for the ‘dia de los muertos‘ was created on the street. Girls loved it. The weather was nice too!
GETTING AROUND AND TO SAN SEBASTIAN
San Sebastian is only a 3-hour drive from Bordeaux / Bazas. The nearest airports are Bilbao in Spain and Biarritz in France. If you are only going to stay in the city, there is no need for a car. However, the countryside and coastline is stunning and you could spend days driving through the charming villages! Want to go a little further afield? Look into a wine tour in Rioja, or a day trip to Bilbao. There is so much to see in Pais Vasco, but this is the short of it! Have fun!
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